Some testing climbing on both pitches, the first technical and the second airy. Start as for Kipling Groove.
1) 10m. Make an easy traverse leftwards to a stance and belay just below the long band of overhangs - as for Kipling Groove.
2) 5b, 23m. Climb up rightwards following a crack to an overhang. Pull over and continue to below another stepped square-cut overhang. Make thin moves over and left to a spike, then head up to a stance and belay below a groove.
3) 5b, 12m. Go right towards the arete. Make some thin moves up the exposed wall, which gradually eases towards the top. Continuing directly up the groove above the belay is 4c. © Rockfax
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