Rockfax Description
Some testing climbing on both pitches, the first technical and the second airy. Start as for Kipling Groove.
1) 10m. Make an easy traverse leftwards to a stance and belay just below the long band of overhangs - as for Kipling Groove.
2) 5b, 23m. Climb up rightwards following a crack to an overhang. Pull over and continue to below another stepped square-cut overhang. Make thin moves over and left to a spike, then head up to a stance and belay below a groove.
3) 5b, 12m. Go right towards the arete. Make some thin moves up the exposed wall, which gradually eases towards the top. Continuing directly up the groove above the belay is 4c. © Rockfax


Allan Austin Classics , 60 At 60


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High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Votes cast 16
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 22
Votes cast 21
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set
Route of Interest
The Buttonhook Route

Grade: E1 5b ***
(Kern Knotts)

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