Restricted Access

There have been serious problems here in the past but access appears less problematic providing climbers keep a low profile. The quarries are owned by Gwynedd Council who make it clear that there is no offical access due to public safety reasons - there are high fences and signs prohibiting access, but there have not been any reports of practical access problems for many years.

In early 2017 planning permisson was granted for a new hydro-electric power station on the site. When works starts on this (unkknow time-scale) its likley that access to some of the quarries will be permenently lost, especially to Mancer and Film Set Quarries as these will become flooded to produce a holding reservoir.  

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 30 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

- Due to nesting Peregrines and Choughs (both species have legal protection under the Wildlife & Countryside Act),  some climbing in the Gideon Quarry (all routes on Gideon Terrace and Cracking up areas) is restricted from March 1st until the end of June.

 

A low level traverse of the Gideon terrace wall. Start bridged across the groove of giddy one in the corner. Step up to the good starting hold on the hand...etc and using the bore hole for the foot drop down and follow the obvious horizontal break all the way finishing round the corner at the far end of the juggy rail right of the gnarly spar kid. down climb the easy groove to get off.

Phil Targett 16/Oct/2011.

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Route of Interest
The Groove SS

Grade: V4 ***
(Tonfedd [Wavelength Boulders])

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