Go up Moriarty for a pitch to the block belay on Sherlock. Climb the second pitch of
Sherlock to the stance on the arete. Start up the third pitch of Sherlock (up the steep
corner) to the compact rock band. Traverse left with an awkward downwards
mantelshelf to belay in a corner. Go out left on awkward ramps to turn the left side of
the compact band; belay on a big ledge system. Go out right towards the edge of the
buttress and up over short walls and grooves (a long pitch). Go leftwards then
rightwards up ramps to a final awkward undercut wall leading to the top.