251m, 8 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A brilliant, varied expedition. The initial pitches are steep, but after the fourth pitch the angle lies back a little, the rock becomes more compact and gives slabbier climbing. All but one of the belays are on comfortable ledges. Start at a slight clearing where a large cairn marks the start and 'LLUVIA' is scratched into the rock. The first protection is an fixed thread.

1) 5c, 30m. Start up a slab and then the steepening wall. Continue up a right-trending groove to a belay.
2) 5c, 30m. Head slightly right to a perched block. Carefully pull on the block up a short corner to easier climbing up the right-trending groove above to a belay.
3) 5b, 34m. Steep moves gain a corner. Exit the corner onto slabbier ground where technical climbing leads to a belay.
4) 5c, 40m. A fantastic pitch. Head right past white rock to a wild position on the arete. Move over a bulge to a large groove. Follow this to a belay. Care with some rock required.
5) 4b, 22m. Climb the slab, trending right, to a belay at a tree.
6) 5b, 30m. Up the slab passing some tricky bulges.
7) 5b, 30m. Step right and climb the slab to a ledge. Climb the steep shallow corner and easier slabs to a belay on a broad vegetated ledge.
8) 5c, 35m. Climb the slabby grey rib to an orange overlap. Traverse left under the overlap to a corner. Move up the corner, passing right of a tree to a belay.
Descent - The route reaches the summit of a pinnacle. From the belay, head left and scramble for 10m over blocks to a small flat grassy patch. The abseil point is visible straight on from here. Make a single 35m abseil down the vegetated slope - 70m rope is essential. From the base of the abseil, scramble with care downwards and skirt right to a cairn. Traverse around a rib until more cairns are visible. A tricky down climb leads to less exposed terrain. Follow further cairns and a rough path until a scree field is reached. At this point the path becomes more defined. Cross the scree and continue following cairns to the notch in the ridge line to join the Amptrax descent at the large notch - p.63. © Rockfax

Ticklists

El Chorro multipitch , El Chorro , Ryan's Multipitch Climbs (Europe) , El Chorro Recommendations (6a-7b) , ROCKFAX El Chorro 2018: Top 50 , El Chorro Recommendations , The Boys take on El Chorro (for the third time)

Feedback

User Date Notes
Noah Rachel 27 Feb Show βeta
βeta: Decent info: Once you top out walk left to the clearing and then more left to the painted abseil point (yellow spray paint). We used an 80m rope for the abb but some left. Once you are facing outwards/back to the abb point look right and follow the cable (yellow spray paint as well) along. Keep trending rightwards with some ups and downs until you reach a main path. The yellow dots continue all the way down to the valley floor.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Decent info: Once you top out walk left to the clearing and then more left to the painted abseil point (yellow spray paint). We used an 80m rope for the abb but some left. Once you are facing outwards/back to the abb point look right and follow the cable (yellow spray paint as well) along. Keep trending rightwards with some ups and downs until you reach a main path. The yellow dots continue all the way down to the valley floor.
RBonney 24 Sep, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Instead of following the descent in the guide you can keep going up a ridge. There's 3 or 4 pitches above the ridge of easy clombing/scrambling. It's a much better way to end the route.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Instead of following the descent in the guide you can keep going up a ridge. There's 3 or 4 pitches above the ridge of easy clombing/scrambling. It's a much better way to end the route.
Will789 20 Dec, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Be sure to keep to the left hand bolt line on p7&8 as very easy to follow the easy terrain off route! Also the abseil chains are located about 30m back and left from the top of the route, not the ‘10m left’ described in the guide, they are hard to find but look for the heart scratched on the rock. The walk off is absolutely fine but it would be very easy to get lost on exposed terrain if doing it in the dark.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Be sure to keep to the left hand bolt line on p7&8 as very easy to follow the easy terrain off route! Also the abseil chains are located about 30m back and left from the top of the route, not the ‘10m left’ described in the guide, they are hard to find but look for the heart scratched on the rock. The walk off is absolutely fine but it would be very easy to get lost on exposed terrain if doing it in the dark.
FelixC 19 Dec, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Sun rise to sun set outing. Guidebook true to its words. Absolutely phenomenal climbing through out and varied climbing. Lead all pitches, confidence grew as I went higher. Kevin's first multi pitch experience! Some choss in the mid pitches. Down climbed to recycle some quickdraws on the long pitches. Apparently there are two abseil stations at the top (the 35m one needs a bit more scrambling, we used the 37m one so we had to gingerly down climb at the end of the abseil).
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Sun rise to sun set outing. Guidebook true to its words. Absolutely phenomenal climbing through out and varied climbing. Lead all pitches, confidence grew as I went higher. Kevin's first multi pitch experience! Some choss in the mid pitches. Down climbed to recycle some quickdraws on the long pitches. Apparently there are two abseil stations at the top (the 35m one needs a bit more scrambling, we used the 37m one so we had to gingerly down climb at the end of the abseil).
Claire Carpenter 11 Jan, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Bottom 2 pitches are hardest and steepest though the climb doesn’t ever loose interest. A cracking adventure - which can be extended by adding on the last 4-5 pitches of the route to its RHS called Fanatik@s (372m). All these extra pitches are under grade V along or near the ridge line. They can be easily joined from the top pitch of ‘Asteroids’. After you do the extra 120m of climbing, follow the ridge to the top of the mountain and walk over the top (towards the Arab Steps) and descend that way back down to the road/forrest.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Bottom 2 pitches are hardest and steepest though the climb doesn’t ever loose interest. A cracking adventure - which can be extended by adding on the last 4-5 pitches of the route to its RHS called Fanatik@s (372m). All these extra pitches are under grade V along or near the ridge line. They can be easily joined from the top pitch of ‘Asteroids’. After you do the extra 120m of climbing, follow the ridge to the top of the mountain and walk over the top (towards the Arab Steps) and descend that way back down to the road/forrest.
Gazmataz 17 May, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: It looks like there is a new route that crosses at the top 2 pitches. It’s fairly well labeled coming off one belay but you could mistake it on the final pitch. Follow the guide books description and take the left line of bolts, not the easier looking right line.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: It looks like there is a new route that crosses at the top 2 pitches. It’s fairly well labeled coming off one belay but you could mistake it on the final pitch. Follow the guide books description and take the left line of bolts, not the easier looking right line.
Kat_yes 28 Jun, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: After absail, turn right with back against wall to find path to go back home
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: After absail, turn right with back against wall to find path to go back home
Justsomeclimber 15 Mar, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: The abseil (to access the scramble) you can get away with on a 65m
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The abseil (to access the scramble) you can get away with on a 65m
Sam Willis 31 Dec, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Pitch 4 is over a bulge and you totally lose all communication so work out a system before climbing!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Pitch 4 is over a bulge and you totally lose all communication so work out a system before climbing!
Keith Lambley 30 Oct, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: The abseil point has a heart scratched on the rock making it easier to spot
βeta?
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βeta: The abseil point has a heart scratched on the rock making it easier to spot

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Voting
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 51
Votes cast 53
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
DNF
Repeated
Dogged
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Redpoint
Not Set
Route of Interest
Floja y Pendulona

Grade: 5c ***
(Túron)

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