Rockfax Description
The final Froggatt classic. Climb the slippery ramp then the side-wall diagonally leftwards to a fat wire. Make a barn-door move left to the huge jug on the arete, then meander up this to a spectacular finish. Easier for the tall. © Rockfax
FA. John Gosling 1962.
Ticklists
ROCKFAX Eastern Grit: Top 50 , Top 20 Gritstone UKC Wishlist Climbs , ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500 , Froggatt to Black Rocks (BMC) - The Grade List , Peak Gritstone S-HVS **+ , World Graded List , Peak Rock/9/Gritstone in the Sixties , The BMC 70th Anniversary Ticklist , Ultimate HVS ticklist , The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , Rockfax Eastern Grit (2015) Top 50 , The Froggatt to Black Rocks 3 Star Pilgrimage , Definitive *** Peak Grit , Eastern Grit 2 star plus (HVS/VS/HS) , Adele & Dave , On Peak Rock , Definitive Eastern Grit top 50- 2001, 2006 and 2015 editions , The Gritlist , Post-Covid19 Eastern Grit Targets. , 2020/21 Trips , Wired Peak District Grit Graded List , Wired Peak District Grit (2020) *** List , Pete's Peak Treats , Every 3 Starred HVS and Under Gritstone , Big trad grit list , 33 By 33 , Eastern Grit 2015 - Top 500 HVS , Peaky , 2022 Rockfax Eastern Grit Graded List , 3* HVS at Bamford, Stanage, Burbage, Millstone, Froggatt, and Curbar , Essential grit ticks for the aspiring trad leader , ROCKFAX TOP 50s upto e3 , *** HVS on Peak Gritstone
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Tim Lowe | 9 Aug, 2021 |
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βeta: Fantastic route. 42 years since I last did it. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Fantastic route. 42 years since I last did it. |
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| Fraser kid | 19 Jul, 2021 |
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βeta: Really hot today but cruised it. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Really hot today but cruised it. |
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| Ihem | 23 Aug, 2019 |
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βeta: I found it really hard as a shorty to reach the holds! (165cm) but still and amazing route!! | βeta? | |
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βeta: I found it really hard as a shorty to reach the holds! (165cm) but still and amazing route!! |
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| Alison Cairns | 27 Apr, 2007 |
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βeta: Did this y'day and reckon the grade is probably between 4c and 5b depending on your reach - for me its hard 5a. I'm 5'6 with average ape index and i couldn't reach the arete but could reach a reasonable hold in the break up and left, then had to fully commit to a poor low side pull for the right to make the reach. Its then another slightly harder move if you can't reach straight to the bottom of the flake/jug of the good foothold. Top route tho! | ||
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Show beta
βeta: Did this y'day and reckon the grade is probably between 4c and 5b depending on your reach - for me its hard 5a. I'm 5'6 with average ape index and i couldn't reach the arete but could reach a reasonable hold in the break up and left, then had to fully commit to a poor low side pull for the right to make the reach. Its then another slightly harder move if you can't reach straight to the bottom of the flake/jug of the good foothold. Top route tho! |
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| Alex Mason | 22 May, 2005 |
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βeta: best route ever exposure is ace and all the holds are positive nice balancey move unto the arete | βeta? | |
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βeta: best route ever exposure is ace and all the holds are positive nice balancey move unto the arete |
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| chris sm | 19 May, 2005 |
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βeta: Fantastic route. I thought it was quite low in the grade. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Fantastic route. I thought it was quite low in the grade. |
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| Alex@home | 10 Mar, 2005 |
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βeta: Si - found myself in a similar sounding position. Found the trick was to toe hook the arete with your left foot and then reach up to the jug with your left hand - hats off for having the balls to dyno onsite tho! Top, top route - definitely in my top 5 HVSs | ||
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βeta: Si - found myself in a similar sounding position. Found the trick was to toe hook the arete with your left foot and then reach up to the jug with your left hand - hats off for having the balls to dyno onsite tho! Top, top route - definitely in my top 5 HVSs |
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| minimike | 8 Feb, 2005 |
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βeta: Oi Jacko, who are you calling a shortar*e? | βeta? | |
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βeta: Oi Jacko, who are you calling a shortar*e? |
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| Ander | 11 Jul, 2004 |
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βeta: what a tip-top route. Not particularly strenous, well protected, fabulous moves. GREAT. | βeta? | |
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βeta: what a tip-top route. Not particularly strenous, well protected, fabulous moves. GREAT. |
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| tom r | 20 Oct, 2003 |
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βeta: I have to say for grading issues that if you asked me to define a grit HVS I would say this is about spot on. | βeta? | |
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βeta: I have to say for grading issues that if you asked me to define a grit HVS I would say this is about spot on. |
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| leon | 29 Sep, 2003 |
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βeta: i gotta admit it actually seems to get harder every time i do it!!! hvs 5a | βeta? | |
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βeta: i gotta admit it actually seems to get harder every time i do it!!! hvs 5a |
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| leon | 10 Sep, 2003 |
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βeta: i agree that this climb feels more like vs 4c. it's still a great climb & i love the move onto the arete -once you're there just walk up the ladder! | βeta? | |
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βeta: i agree that this climb feels more like vs 4c. it's still a great climb & i love the move onto the arete -once you're there just walk up the ladder! |
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| Jon Greengrass | 17 Jun, 2003 |
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βeta: At 6' 1" the reach was easy the gear was bomber, felt like VS 4c. Awesome route still. | βeta? | |
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βeta: At 6' 1" the reach was easy the gear was bomber, felt like VS 4c. Awesome route still. |
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| Monk | 28 Apr, 2003 |
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βeta: Excellent route but I found it quite hard. Maybe it's because I'm short of reach? Once you get that jug though.....mmmmmm! | βeta? | |
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βeta: Excellent route but I found it quite hard. Maybe it's because I'm short of reach? Once you get that jug though.....mmmmmm! |
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| Ram MkiV | 24 Sep, 2002 |
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βeta: In my opinion, the best classic HVS I've done! (other contenders I've done include Valkyrie, overhanging groove, great western....) However I think this decision could be down to the fact that its never too strenuous and you don't have to jam. The move out to the arete is awesome and you couldn't wish for better protection for it. Then the moves up the arete are easier but in a fantastic position. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: In my opinion, the best classic HVS I've done! (other contenders I've done include Valkyrie, overhanging groove, great western....) However I think this decision could be down to the fact that its never too strenuous and you don't have to jam. The move out to the arete is awesome and you couldn't wish for better protection for it. Then the moves up the arete are easier but in a fantastic position. |
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| Nick Smith - Climbers | 20 Apr, 2002 |
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βeta: One of the best HVS's on grit! Once established on the arete just savour that exposure :-) | βeta? | |
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βeta: One of the best HVS's on grit! Once established on the arete just savour that exposure :-) |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Froggatt Edge
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Kilkenny Rib
Grade: HVS 5b ***
(Kinder Downfall)