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20m.

Rockfax Description
6b, S1. Memorable. A fine climb in a very atmospheric position. Start by traversing in along the break to a niche just before the cave. Continue up past another corner and across slabs until stopped by a wall. Go round the rib and bridge out and up the chimney. Keep bridging, then pull out left and up to finish. © Rockfax

FA. Richard Crewe 7.9.1969. FFA. Frank Farrell 9.1979. First soloed by Nick Buckley 26.6.1983.

Ticklists

Littlejohn South West Climbs, West Country Climbs, Hard water, CLIMB Mag's Top 100 routes in Britain, Ultimate E2 ticklist, SW Climbs - Swanage, Dorset weekender, The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet), Best Mid Grade Sea Cliff Traverses, Dorset DWS progression, UK DWS 2018 / 19!, Extreme Girdle, 2020 Deep Water Solo Goals

Feedback

User Date Notes
Sophie Nunn 12 Jul Show βeta
βeta: A section of the crux block has come off but it hasnt altered the climb thankfully
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: A section of the crux block has come off but it hasnt altered the climb thankfully
David Dickinson 24 Jun Show βeta
βeta: Felt scarier and harder than FBM, amazing finish, will do this one again!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Felt scarier and harder than FBM, amazing finish, will do this one again!
rustaldo 3 Jun Show βeta
βeta: Possible loss of crucial foothold / bottom of the block has fallen away. I'm not super familiar with the area but have climbed the route previously (I have fallen off the crux too) - My memory was that you had to swap feet on a small square-ish foothold on the outer bottom corner of the crux hanging slab - that foothold and roughly an 10-12inch cube shaped block is now on the seabed it would seem. Someone with better knowledge should confirm though.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Possible loss of crucial foothold / bottom of the block has fallen away. I'm not super familiar with the area but have climbed the route previously (I have fallen off the crux too) - My memory was that you had to swap feet on a small square-ish foothold on the outer bottom corner of the crux hanging slab - that foothold and roughly an 10-12inch cube shaped block is now on the seabed it would seem. Someone with better knowledge should confirm though.
Sash.C 24 Jul, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: A classic route which eveyone should have a go at! definitley 3 stars!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: A classic route which eveyone should have a go at! definitley 3 stars!
Paul B 16 Aug, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: Great Climb, did the crux completely wrong but managed to hang in there...excellent, perfect position.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Great Climb, did the crux completely wrong but managed to hang in there...excellent, perfect position.
philhilo 7 May, 2002 Show βeta
βeta: Superb route as a dws. Thought it was very soft touch but if everyone else thinks it is middle of the grade then who am i to disagree. Cant wait to get down to connor with the lads.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Superb route as a dws. Thought it was very soft touch but if everyone else thinks it is middle of the grade then who am i to disagree. Cant wait to get down to connor with the lads.

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High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
Votes cast 60
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 62
Votes cast 74
Style of Ascent
Soloed
DWS
Followed
Lead
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
DNF
Redpoint
Ground Up
Dogged
Not Set
Route of Interest

Tudor Rose

Grade: E2 5b ***
(Guillemot Ledge)