UKH

20m.

Rockfax Description
6b, S1. Memorable. A fine climb in a very atmospheric position. Start by traversing in along the break to a niche just before the cave. Continue up past another corner and across slabs until stopped by a wall. Go round the rib and bridge out and up the chimney. Keep bridging, then pull out left and up to finish. © Rockfax

FA. Richard Crewe 7.9.1969. FFA. Frank Farrell 9.1979. First soloed by Nick Buckley 26.6.1983.

Ticklists

Littlejohn South West Climbs, West Country Climbs, Hard water, CLIMB Mag's Top 100 routes in Britain, Ultimate E2 ticklist, SW Climbs - Swanage, Dorset weekender, The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet), Best Mid Grade Sea Cliff Traverses, Dorset DWS progression, Extreme Girdle, 2020-2021 Deep Water Solo Goals, DWS200 - Dream Targets up to 7b+, Paul Dearden's classic rock climbs, 31 By 31

Feedback

User Date Notes
Iain Weymouth 18 Nov, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: An evening epic... resulting in failure, waist deep water and nearly missing closing time at the Durlston Castle !
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βeta: An evening epic... resulting in failure, waist deep water and nearly missing closing time at the Durlston Castle !
plant_based_tommo 1 Sep, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: at least 6b+ maybe 6c in anything less than perfect connies.
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βeta: at least 6b+ maybe 6c in anything less than perfect connies.
Sophie Nunn 12 Jul, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: A section of the crux block has come off but it hasnt altered the climb thankfully
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βeta: A section of the crux block has come off but it hasnt altered the climb thankfully
David Dickinson 24 Jun, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Felt scarier and harder than FBM, amazing finish, will do this one again!
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βeta: Felt scarier and harder than FBM, amazing finish, will do this one again!
rustaldo 3 Jun, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Possible loss of crucial foothold / bottom of the block has fallen away. I'm not super familiar with the area but have climbed the route previously (I have fallen off the crux too) - My memory was that you had to swap feet on a small square-ish foothold on the outer bottom corner of the crux hanging slab - that foothold and roughly an 10-12inch cube shaped block is now on the seabed it would seem. Someone with better knowledge should confirm though.
βeta?
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βeta: Possible loss of crucial foothold / bottom of the block has fallen away. I'm not super familiar with the area but have climbed the route previously (I have fallen off the crux too) - My memory was that you had to swap feet on a small square-ish foothold on the outer bottom corner of the crux hanging slab - that foothold and roughly an 10-12inch cube shaped block is now on the seabed it would seem. Someone with better knowledge should confirm though.
Sash.C 24 Jul, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: A classic route which eveyone should have a go at! definitley 3 stars!
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βeta: A classic route which eveyone should have a go at! definitley 3 stars!
Paul B 16 Aug, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: Great Climb, did the crux completely wrong but managed to hang in there...excellent, perfect position.
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βeta: Great Climb, did the crux completely wrong but managed to hang in there...excellent, perfect position.
philhilo 7 May, 2002 Show βeta
βeta: Superb route as a dws. Thought it was very soft touch but if everyone else thinks it is middle of the grade then who am i to disagree. Cant wait to get down to connor with the lads.
βeta?
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βeta: Superb route as a dws. Thought it was very soft touch but if everyone else thinks it is middle of the grade then who am i to disagree. Cant wait to get down to connor with the lads.

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High E3
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Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
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Votes cast 61
High 6a
Mid 6a
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High 5c
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High 5b
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Votes cast 63
Votes cast 76
Style of Ascent
Soloed
DWS
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Onsighted
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DNF
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Ground Up
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Route of Interest

Ximenes

Grade: E2 5c ***
(Boulder Ruckle)
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