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17m.

Rockfax Description
6c, S1. A classic, with a soft landing. From halfway along the approach traverse, climb the slab and then the steep pocketed wall above to a big hole. Swing left and make some final tricky moves onto the top slab. Linking from just below the crux to Herman Borg's Basic Pulley Slippage is Freeborn Borg, 7a+, S1, and continuing direct onto the slab is Freeborn Direct, 7a, S1. © Rockfax

FA. Nick Buckley, Kevin Turner Aug/1979.

Ticklists

West Country Climbs, Feature Photo Routes from Dorset Rockfax 2012, Hard water, South coast sport/DWS ticklist, The BMC 70th Anniversary Ticklist, SW Climbs - Swanage, Dorset weekender, Ultimate E4 ticklist, The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet), The Ultimate SUMC Ticklist, Dorset DWS progression, UK DWS 2018 / 19!, 2020-2021 Deep Water Solo Goals, 2021 Trad Goald

Feedback

User Date Notes
plant_based_tommo 1 Sep Show βeta
βeta: One of the best!
βeta?
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βeta: One of the best!
David Dickinson 24 Jun Show βeta
βeta: Couldn't believe I'd done it, not quite what I expected but so so good
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Couldn't believe I'd done it, not quite what I expected but so so good
daimon 22 Sep, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: If this line was a sport's route it would get 6b+ especially in Yorkshire. Or maybe HVS I don't know ;-), but what people need to take into account with DWS is the head factor, which for most people places the grade a bit higher. So if its 6b+ sport I think with the added grip factor it goes at 6c.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: If this line was a sport's route it would get 6b+ especially in Yorkshire. Or maybe HVS I don't know ;-), but what people need to take into account with DWS is the head factor, which for most people places the grade a bit higher. So if its 6b+ sport I think with the added grip factor it goes at 6c.
Sash.C 24 Jul, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: An excellent route, but admittedly i didn't have the minerals to get over onto the top slab - gutted! instead, a controlled fall saw me flying into the drink, much to the joy the cheering crowd of spectators! will be back next week for another pop at it though. 3 star fun!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: An excellent route, but admittedly i didn't have the minerals to get over onto the top slab - gutted! instead, a controlled fall saw me flying into the drink, much to the joy the cheering crowd of spectators! will be back next week for another pop at it though. 3 star fun!
Sam Ring 2 Jun, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: I'm sure leading it would be harder. Good route 6b+ sport grade. Not sure if its worth the hype, but good nonetheless.
βeta?
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βeta: I'm sure leading it would be harder. Good route 6b+ sport grade. Not sure if its worth the hype, but good nonetheless.
tobyfk 31 Jul, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: F6b+! If you have fairly strong fingers there will only be one move that feels at all insecure. The E grade: who cares ...
βeta?
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βeta: F6b+! If you have fairly strong fingers there will only be one move that feels at all insecure. The E grade: who cares ...
Adam Lincoln 17 May, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: 6c?! 6b is cloer to the mark.
βeta?
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βeta: 6c?! 6b is cloer to the mark.
johncoxmysteriously 20 Jun, 2000 Show βeta
βeta: Fabulous but E4 is taking the piss. The Conger is just as hard if not harder. (A little) reach dependent going up for the break.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Fabulous but E4 is taking the piss. The Conger is just as hard if not harder. (A little) reach dependent going up for the break.
Ally Smith 16 Mar, 2000 Show βeta
βeta: Probably F6c+/7a, but OK if you keep moving quickly. Watch out for the pull over the lip where the holds suddenly get smaller, WICKED!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Probably F6c+/7a, but OK if you keep moving quickly. Watch out for the pull over the lip where the holds suddenly get smaller, WICKED!

Logged Ascents

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Voting
High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
Votes cast 53
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 51
Votes cast 59
Style of Ascent
Soloed
DWS
Toproped
Followed
Lead
Not Set
Repeated
Onsighted
Flashed (β)
DNF
Redpoint
Ground Up
Dogged
Not Set
Route of Interest

Barracuda

Grade: E4 5c ***
(Boulder Ruckle)