Due to late nesting sea-birds on the eastern arete area please avoid the routes "Fallout" to Gstelli" inclusive until the end of August . The birds are Fulmars and can be very aggressive and will vomit foul smelling puke over climbers close to the nest ...so it's in our best interest to avoid these routes until the birds have fledged! The routes affected are also pretty poor!
Dates: 1 May to 31 July
Reason: Nesting Birds
In addition to the advice regarding nesting Fulmars above, The BMC has been informed by the NT that they wish to impose a seasonal restriction ".... due to the presence of ‘cavity-nesting’ Common Swifts* using the cracks in this face. As a minimum the routes ‘Reptiles and Samurai’, ‘Isis’, ‘Horus’, and ‘Rhea’ need to close until 1st August".
The BMC does not normally agree to seasonal restrictions for nesting Swifts but crag nesting Swifts are very scarce and the species has seen significant decline in populations in recent years. We have been infomed by the NT that they "want the routes listed below at Lewes Castle closed until 1st August. The decline in breeding population of Common Swifts is very worrying".
No climbing on the routes "Reptiles and Samurai" to "Rhea" inclusive fro May 1st until August 1st.
Rockfax Description
Do not climb if angry birds are in residence in the cave, you will regret it! Climb up the crack to reach the cave. Move out left to gain a pedestal and then finish up the steep crack above. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
Start below cave. Follow the steep initial crack before entering an easier groove. Ascend directly to the cave. Watch out for fulmars. Possible belay should you choose. Move onto wall left of cave, get on top of wall and ascend steep crack above to the top (good protection).
J Talbot, p. Hinder 1974.
Gower S-HVS *+ , CUMC Ticklist
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Grade: VS 4c ***
(Three Cliffs Bay)