Due to late nesting sea-birds on the eastern arete area please avoid the routes "Fallout" to Gstelli" inclusive until the end of August . The birds are Fulmars and can be very aggressive and will vomit foul smelling puke over climbers close to the nest ...so it's in our best interest to avoid these routes until the birds have fledged! The routes affected are also pretty poor!
Dates: 1 May to 31 July
Reason: Nesting Birds
In addition to the advice regarding nesting Fulmars above, The BMC has been informed by the NT that they wish to impose a seasonal restriction ".... due to the presence of ‘cavity-nesting’ Common Swifts* using the cracks in this face. As a minimum the routes ‘Reptiles and Samurai’, ‘Isis’, ‘Horus’, and ‘Rhea’ need to close until 1st August".
The BMC does not normally agree to seasonal restrictions for nesting Swifts but crag nesting Swifts are very scarce and the species has seen significant decline in populations in recent years. We have been infomed by the NT that they "want the routes listed below at Lewes Castle closed until 1st August. The decline in breeding population of Common Swifts is very worrying".
No climbing on the routes "Reptiles and Samurai" to "Rhea" inclusive fro May 1st until August 1st.
Rockfax Description
A good route that dodges around the blank groove.
1) 5b, 15m. Climb steeply up to a belay below the black groove.
2) 6a, 18m. Move out right to the arete and up to the line of overhangs before traversing back left above the top of the groove. Finish steeply, belay further up on blocks. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
Another superb route on good rock, attempting to climb the striking black groove line on the main pillar. Start beneath the groove an hour either side of low water.
1) 15m, 5b. Climb steeply on good holds to a small stance beneath the black groove.
2) 30m, 6a. Climb rightwards to the arête and move up to the band of overhangs. Traverse left beneath the overhang until above the blank section of the groove. Climb straight up steep ground to reach the broken crest of the buttress. Finish easily up this to block belays.
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Grade: E5 6b ***
(Fall Bay to Mewslade)