The BMC has negotiated with the landowner and secured an access agreement, but this is dependent on the continuing responsible behavior of climbers.
Local cavers have an agreement with the landowner to manage recreation in the quarry through the Fairy Cave Management Committee. They have been extremely supportive of climber’s efforts to secure access and without their support it is unlikely we would have been successful. Mark Courtiour (BMC Access Rep) has been co-opted onto the Management Committee but the cavers have overall responsibility for recreational use of the quarry.
Maintaining our good relationship with the cavers is important, as is following a few simple points within our access agreement:
Descents:
Movement around the top of some areas of the quarry can be difficult and local climbers have established abseil descents from all popular areas. Please do not remove these fixtures. Most lower offs/abseil points have been renewed and stakes have been installed above Robs Crack and Lumbar Puncture/Epic Dural. As always with fixed equipment, be sure to thoroughly inspect all parts of an anchor before committing to using it.
FA. B.Sutton, I.Butterworth, H.Harris 09/Jul/2005.
User | Date | Notes | ||
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kiwi boy | 8 Mar, 2022 |
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βeta: Just after crux move where you then move right to the slab edge newish rock fall where clearly has had gear placement. Care is needed moving passed this. Probably remains hs | ||
Show beta
βeta: Just after crux move where you then move right to the slab edge newish rock fall where clearly has had gear placement. Care is needed moving passed this. Probably remains hs |
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d_b | 28 Feb, 2022 |
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βeta: Part of the lower right hand side of the slab has broken off, turning one of the finger cracks into an arete. The rock that has been exposed underneath appears reasonably solid though, and the route is still climbable. My assessment is that it is still a fun HS, slightly higher in the grade than before the rockfall. | ||
Show beta
βeta: Part of the lower right hand side of the slab has broken off, turning one of the finger cracks into an arete. The rock that has been exposed underneath appears reasonably solid though, and the route is still climbable. My assessment is that it is still a fun HS, slightly higher in the grade than before the rockfall. |
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mr random | 2 May, 2021 |
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βeta: Lose in places. Care required. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Lose in places. Care required. |
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JimOakleyAdventures | 1 Jul, 2020 |
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βeta: Warm up route. A little bear of pro until your 5m up. Double stakes at top. Good route | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Warm up route. A little bear of pro until your 5m up. Double stakes at top. Good route |
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