The BMC has negotiated with the landowner and secured an access agreement, but this is dependent on the continuing responsible behavior of climbers.
Local cavers have an agreement with the landowner to manage recreation in the quarry through the Fairy Cave Management Committee. They have been extremely supportive of climber’s efforts to secure access and without their support it is unlikely we would have been successful. Mark Courtiour (BMC Access Rep) has been co-opted onto the Management Committee but the cavers have overall responsibility for recreational use of the quarry.
Maintaining our good relationship with the cavers is important, as is following a few simple points within our access agreement:
Descents:
Movement around the top of some areas of the quarry can be difficult and local climbers have established abseil descents from all popular areas. Please do not remove these fixtures. Most lower offs/abseil points have been renewed and stakes have been installed above Robs Crack and Lumbar Puncture/Epic Dural. As always with fixed equipment, be sure to thoroughly inspect all parts of an anchor before committing to using it.
FA. B.Mullan (solo) 14/Mar/2011.
User | Date | Notes | ||
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AidanBoyce1 | 27 Sep, 2022 |
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βeta: Using new bolts at top. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Using new bolts at top. |
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bpmclimb | 20 Sep, 2022 |
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βeta: Installed a bolted belay/abseil station yesterday, to replace the dieback-affected ash sapling. Couple of points about some things in the logbook notes: the whole point of the route is to climb straight up the middle of the slab, without using holds or runners to either side. You can, of course, use a side runner in the corner to the left, but don't think you've climbed an E2! To those who think any gear is pointless and you might as well solo: that's entirely an option, of course, as with any route (it's what I did on the FA), but I'd be wary of making it a general recommendation - you might well get away with a slip in the first section if you stay upright and slide down, but a fall from above the cracks at 7m could be pretty serious. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Installed a bolted belay/abseil station yesterday, to replace the dieback-affected ash sapling. Couple of points about some things in the logbook notes: the whole point of the route is to climb straight up the middle of the slab, without using holds or runners to either side. You can, of course, use a side runner in the corner to the left, but don't think you've climbed an E2! To those who think any gear is pointless and you might as well solo: that's entirely an option, of course, as with any route (it's what I did on the FA), but I'd be wary of making it a general recommendation - you might well get away with a slip in the first section if you stay upright and slide down, but a fall from above the cracks at 7m could be pretty serious. |
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Paulos87 | 15 Oct, 2019 |
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βeta: Rock is pretty flakey before the gear | ||
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βeta: Rock is pretty flakey before the gear |
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Grade: E2 5c ***
(Fairy Cave Quarry)