UKH

25m.

Rockfax Description
Bold and thin moves with limited protection. Begin 3m to the left of the diagonal grass strip that divides The Glacis and left of a thin seam. Precarious moves gain a reasonable hold at 6m (cam slot out to the right). Head up and then leftwards past a small overlap to reach the line of Caveman/Lunar Landscape. Move left and finish up the bald slab. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
A sought-after lead! Start 3m left of the grassy ramp, just left of a hairline crack. Make hard moves, past microwire placements at 4m, to reach a good hold (slightly offline to the right at 6m is a cam slot: possibly E3 using this, more direct and bolder without). Climb up and then leftwards over a tiny overlap to good cracks (on Caveman); then step left again to finish up another blank area of the slab.

The original line, more suited to a solo ascent, went up right from the overlap and finished as for Slight of Hand.

FA. R.A.Broomhead, J.Stanbury 27/Jun/2002.

Ticklists

Fairy Cave Quarry Top 20 , Fairy cave hard stuff , 2023

Feedback

User Date Notes
danieljames123 5 Aug, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: When it says microwires, it definitely means micro! Peenuts are too big, think brassies or swedges.
Show beta
βeta: When it says microwires, it definitely means micro! Peenuts are too big, think brassies or swedges.

Logged Ascents

195 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Fairy Cave Quarry

Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks 22 users have this on their wishlist

Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents

Voting
High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
Votes cast 33
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 34
Votes cast 28
Style of Ascent
Toproped
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Redpoint
Repeated
DNF
Flashed (β)
Not Set
Route of Interest
Caesar

Grade: E4 6a ***
(Cheddar Gorge South)

Loading Notifications...