UKH

105m, 3 pitches. An excellent outing, one of the most popular climbs on the main cliff. This route takes the line up behind the huge detached pillar capped by a large bridging flake (visible from the ground) and trends leftward across the wall above. Start at the foot of the crack to the right of a small collapsed column, about 150m left of the Fang.
1) 45m (5a). Climb the crack and chimney to a ledge at 12m. Move up left to climb the crack between the main column and the wall, continue by chimneying between the column wall, passing a ledge on the right at 36m. Continue up with a slight increase in difficulty to a good ledge on the right.
2) 30m (5b). Move up and left airily to gain the top of the detached column and flake. Across the flake to the wall, then an awkward move up the wall brings jugs and a ledge on the right. Climb the short wall on the left moving in from the right (crux) continue up the thin crack to the ramp. Easier climbing leads to a large ledge. Climb a short awkward groove to exit right onto a large ramp, move back left to a good ledge.
3) 30m (5a). Climb the ramp and make an awkward move left to small ledges. Go up right to a corner crack, follow this to a belay on the ledge (possible belay). Climb the steep crack in the final wall.

C Torrans, C Sheridan 15/Jan/1976.

Ticklists

Victim Of Mathematics' Ticklist of Extreme Justice, MIA logbook must haves!, Unusual and Interesting Routes You Must Do VS- E2, Ireland 3 Star E1-E2, UK road to wide crack mastery, E1 progression, Ireland 3 Star Multipitches, Weird and Wonderful

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kenneM 24 Jun, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Best E1 I’ve done anywhere! Every pitch is awesome !!!
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βeta: Best E1 I’ve done anywhere! Every pitch is awesome !!!

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Fireball

Grade: E1 5b ***
(Fair Head)
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