UKH

16 pitches.

Rockfax Description
II, 320m. A brilliant route on stunning rock with long pitches, this is a sustained and technical challenge.
1) 5c. Climb up directly underneath the higher of two large roofs, then move left to belay next to the lower roof.
2) 6b. Sneak between the two roofs via some delicate moves and then a tricky traverse right into a crack leading to the belay.
3) 5c. Continue up easier, slabby ground to a good ledge.
4) 6b. Drift right up a slab then pass through a small overlap.
5) 6a+. Continue up the slab to reach a small ledge. Shake out and carry on up a steeper wall.
6) 6a. Start off on the right of the slab above the belay and then step left after 20m before carrying on up to a stance. This pitch and the next one are fairly sportingly bolted.
7) 6a. A final tricky and slightly run-out slab leads to the ledge system which caps the lower face.
From the top of the final pitch, either abseil down the route, continue climbing up Ambience Eigerwand or traverse right to finish up the final section of Children of the Moon.
Descent - Abseil back down the route. © Rockfax

Ticklists

Parois-de-legende, Euro Alpine Rock

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High ED1
Mid ED1
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High TD+
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High TD
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High 6b+
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High 6b
Mid 6b
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High 6a+
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Route of Interest

NW Ridge

Grade: TD+ ***
(Charmoz Grepon)
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