Rockfax Description
I, 250m. This great route is named after 'the bridge of sighs' and you'll see this most smile-inducing of features on pitch 4. The start of the route as described here is not the original start (which is neglected and mossy) and is part of a now abandoned route called Le cité des doges. This route is now sometimes referred to by that name.
Begin at the foot of a green slab with two bolts in it.
1) 6b. Make your way up the slab to a large, grassy ledge.
2) 6a. Continue up slightly easier, low-angled slabs and cracks to a nicely positioned belay on the ridge crest.
3) 5c. Downclimb/abseil from the belay to a small brèche. Head up a chimney on the left-hand side of the leaning wall opposite and belay at a stance with a great view of the 'pont'.
4) 5c. Teeter across the 'pont' and either build a belay (sometimes some fixed stuff here) at the far side so as to get a good photo of your second, or continue across easier, broken ground for 10m to a stance below a slab.
5) 6a. Climb the bolted slab and continue up a crack/corner.
6) 6b+. Continue up a slab which is harder (but even better bolted!) than that which preceded it. A cheeky pull on a bolt will reduce the grade to 6a.
7) 6a. Step left and follow a series of hanging grooves up to the foot of the Tour Verte summit tower.
8) 6a. Climb the right-hand edge of the summit tower. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
See: http://www.camptocamp.org/routes/177142/fr/tour-verte-le-pont-des-soupirs
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Grade: TD+ ***
(Mont Blanc du Tacul)