Rockfax Description
II, 320m. If you like granite slabs, this is the right place. Less varied than its neighbours but with more bolt - for when the mind is keen but the arms are tired! The compact nature of the slabs means that the route has more bolts than other routes around here but still requires a single rack of cams and wires.
1) 6a. Climb to the top of a pear-shaped slab.
2) 5c. Head up the left of two corner systems and exit left.
3) 6a. Climb a slab on the right then come back left via a stunning corner.
4) 6a. Go up left to a bolt then move right to reach a deep chimney. Try to stay on the outside of it (easier said than done) and then exit right onto a slab before a thin crack leads back left.
5) 5c. Steadier ground leads out left, then back right and finally onto a series of ledges which take you to a stance beneath a compact slab.
6) 6b+. A long and technical slab pitch which goes gradually right to left throughout. The crux can be avoided with a quick pull on the bolt and the pitch is 6a+ if you do this.
7) 6a. More slab climbing, up a featured continually interesting sweep of rock.
8) 5c. A final slab leads to a short corner. © Rockfax

FA. M.Piola, M.Motto, R.Tucoulou 5.9.1994 05/Sep/1994.

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