75m, 3 pitches.

Rockfax Description
80m. A popular, quick drying gem.
1. 30m 5a Go up slightly left to an overlap, move right 2m and cross the overlap to climb to a corner leading to a ledge.
2. 20m 5a Go up by a flake to gain the corner above and follow this up to make a delicate right traverse under the overlap into a notch. Pull through the overlap and go up into a triangular depression.
3. 30m 4b Traverse left along a slab below a steep wall, then climb a crack in the slab.
FA G.N.Hunter, D.F.Lang (aid), 25 Aug 1968
FA A.Fyffe, J.Grieve (FFA), Oct 1970 © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Classic route up the centre of the crag.
1)5a 25m 2)5a 20m 3)4c 30m

Graeme Hunter & Doug Lang 25/Aug/1968.

Ticklists

Ultimate Scottish Rock , Best slab climbs of the UK , Scottish 3 and 4 star multi-pitch routes , Ultimate HVS ticklist , Scottish Rock Benchmarks , Gary's Ticklist HVS-E2 , Dan's Scottish Summer Hopefuls , A.P's summer , Gary Latter's Scottish Rock Ticklist

Feedback

User Date Notes
Annapasteur 9 Jun Show βeta
βeta: Removed an in situ anchor from the top of pitch one (bail anchor?), and the ab anchor at the top of the crag looks very suspect. The walk off to the left is unpleasant so could be worth replacing the ab.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Removed an in situ anchor from the top of pitch one (bail anchor?), and the ab anchor at the top of the crag looks very suspect. The walk off to the left is unpleasant so could be worth replacing the ab.

Logged Ascents

80 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Eagles Rock

Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks 46 users have this on their wishlist

Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents

Voting
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 27
Votes cast 27
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Flashed (β)
DNF
Not Set
Route of Interest
The Smuggler's Waltz

Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Smuggler's Cliff)

Loading Notifications...