Rockfax Description
80m. A popular, quick drying gem.
1. 30m 5a Go up slightly left to an overlap, move right 2m and cross the overlap to climb to a corner leading to a ledge.
2. 20m 5a Go up by a flake to gain the corner above and follow this up to make a delicate right traverse under the overlap into a notch. Pull through the overlap and go up into a triangular depression.
3. 30m 4b Traverse left along a slab below a steep wall, then climb a crack in the slab.
FA G.N.Hunter, D.F.Lang (aid), 25 Aug 1968
FA A.Fyffe, J.Grieve (FFA), Oct 1970 © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
Classic route up the centre of the crag.
1)5a 25m 2)5a 20m 3)4c 30m
Graeme Hunter & Doug Lang 25/Aug/1968.
Ultimate Scottish Rock , Best slab climbs of the UK , Scottish 3 and 4 star multi-pitch routes , Ultimate HVS ticklist , Scottish Rock Benchmarks , Gary's Ticklist HVS-E2 , Dan's Scottish Summer Hopefuls , A.P's summer , Gary Latter's Scottish Rock Ticklist
User | Date | Notes | ||
---|---|---|---|---|
Annapasteur | 9 Jun |
Show βeta
βeta: Removed an in situ anchor from the top of pitch one (bail anchor?), and the ab anchor at the top of the crag looks very suspect. The walk off to the left is unpleasant so could be worth replacing the ab. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Removed an in situ anchor from the top of pitch one (bail anchor?), and the ab anchor at the top of the crag looks very suspect. The walk off to the left is unpleasant so could be worth replacing the ab. |
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Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Smuggler's Cliff)