Rockfax Description
Brilliant and unlikely climbing which is almost a sport route. Climb straight up the wall to a solid (non-yew) tree. Harder moves lead up to a flake. Pull up then make a foot-scrabbling fingery move rightwards up positive pockets to better holds. Move up past the old yew tree to a fixed belay on a tree above. © Rockfax
FA. Paul Nunn Jeff Morgan (1 sling) 1969 1970s.
Ultimate E1 ticklist , Chris Jackson’s 100 Classic Limestone Climbs , Peak District Limestone Trad
User | Date | Notes | ||
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Fellover | 26 Jun |
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βeta: In situ threads don't look damaged, but do look old, not very trustworthy imo. Contrary to feedback here I didn't think the section past yew tree was that loose, just unpleasant. Maybe some stuff has fallen off? Tree (the one above the yew) at the anchor is dead looking and somewhat wobbly. Nuts are pretty good though, if old looking. | βeta? | |
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βeta: In situ threads don't look damaged, but do look old, not very trustworthy imo. Contrary to feedback here I didn't think the section past yew tree was that loose, just unpleasant. Maybe some stuff has fallen off? Tree (the one above the yew) at the anchor is dead looking and somewhat wobbly. Nuts are pretty good though, if old looking. |
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Lankcroft | 26 Jun |
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βeta: Added some fresh tat to the anchor. It could probably use a full re-wire though tbh... | βeta? | |
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βeta: Added some fresh tat to the anchor. It could probably use a full re-wire though tbh... |
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OllyD | 5 May |
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βeta: The abb off the now dead yew tree is very unsafe, and there is not an obvious alternative (without leaving gear behind). | βeta? | |
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βeta: The abb off the now dead yew tree is very unsafe, and there is not an obvious alternative (without leaving gear behind). |
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Ignas Va | 23 May, 2023 |
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βeta: 2023-05-21: the Yew tree at the abseil point is dead and it seems that it has been so for a couple of years already. Bordeline sketchy. Would advice to not pull outwards on it or swing about. Good adventure combined with the death blocks. | βeta? | |
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βeta: 2023-05-21: the Yew tree at the abseil point is dead and it seems that it has been so for a couple of years already. Bordeline sketchy. Would advice to not pull outwards on it or swing about. Good adventure combined with the death blocks. |
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SteveJC94 | 11 Jun, 2022 |
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βeta: As mentioned below, there are lots of loose blocks by the dead Yew Tree. One of these is about the size of a toaster and could do with trundling on a quiet day. | βeta? | |
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βeta: As mentioned below, there are lots of loose blocks by the dead Yew Tree. One of these is about the size of a toaster and could do with trundling on a quiet day. |
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SP | 20 Jul, 2020 |
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βeta: As noted below, the area around the old yew tree is unstable, it seems that there is a lot of material in there that could come out with relatively little persuasion. It is possible to cross this to the anchor at the tree above, but a lot of care needed- there are several large blocks that are moving. | βeta? | |
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βeta: As noted below, the area around the old yew tree is unstable, it seems that there is a lot of material in there that could come out with relatively little persuasion. It is possible to cross this to the anchor at the tree above, but a lot of care needed- there are several large blocks that are moving. |
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orangesmartie61 | 22 Sep, 2019 |
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βeta: There are dangerously loose blocks left of the dead yew tree on the ramp to the belay. Also the insitu threads are very old, most can be rethreaded on route except the one at the crux. | βeta? | |
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βeta: There are dangerously loose blocks left of the dead yew tree on the ramp to the belay. Also the insitu threads are very old, most can be rethreaded on route except the one at the crux. |
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Alan James - Rockfax | 25 Apr, 2019 |
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βeta: Superb climbing. The higher tree belay is solid. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Superb climbing. The higher tree belay is solid. |
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Chris the Tall | 16 Jul, 2005 |
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βeta: Great climbing on clean rock. Virtually a clip-up due to the threads. Long reach helps. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Great climbing on clean rock. Virtually a clip-up due to the threads. Long reach helps. |
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John Alcock | 31 May, 2005 |
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βeta: Fun, Ardeche style climbing. The crux move right is pushing 6a is you have a short reach. The crux threads are not re-threadable on the lead, so the route will become scary as they wear out. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Fun, Ardeche style climbing. The crux move right is pushing 6a is you have a short reach. The crux threads are not re-threadable on the lead, so the route will become scary as they wear out. |
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Grade: E1 5b ***
(Stanage Popular)