Restricted Access

The BMC has an agreement with the National Trust for fixed equipment in the dale. Put simply this is that like for like maintenance/replacement can take place as and when is needed but placement of new bolts would require agreement through the Peak Area meeting followed by approaching the National Trust for permission. There isn't a presumption of refusal by any means, but the National Trust understandably want to keep track of bolting activity in the Dale and in some cases they may need to apply for SSSI consent as landowner. The National Trust are extremely supportive of climbing in all it's forms in the Dale and it's important that we continue to cultivate our good relationship with them to ensure our needs as climbers are considered into the future. 

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 30 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

-  Tissington Spires - please avoid all routes on South Gully Buttress (Zulu Dawn to Amoeba inclusive) during the restriction period.

-  Ravens Tor - due to the nest location the whole crag is to be avoided for the restriction period.

38m.

Rockfax Description
Brilliant and unlikely climbing which is almost a sport route. Climb straight up the wall to a solid (non-yew) tree. Harder moves lead up to a flake. Pull up then make a foot-scrabbling fingery move rightwards up positive pockets to better holds. Move up past the old yew tree to a fixed belay on a tree above. © Rockfax

FA. Paul Nunn Jeff Morgan (1 sling) 1969 1970s.

Ticklists

Ultimate E1 ticklist , Chris Jackson’s 100 Classic Limestone Climbs , Peak District Limestone Trad

Feedback

User Date Notes
Ignas Va 23 May, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: 2023-05-21: the Yew tree at the abseil point is dead and it seems that it has been so for a couple of years already. Bordeline sketchy. Would advice to not pull outwards on it or swing about. Good adventure combined with the death blocks.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: 2023-05-21: the Yew tree at the abseil point is dead and it seems that it has been so for a couple of years already. Bordeline sketchy. Would advice to not pull outwards on it or swing about. Good adventure combined with the death blocks.
SteveJC94 11 Jun, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: As mentioned below, there are lots of loose blocks by the dead Yew Tree. One of these is about the size of a toaster and could do with trundling on a quiet day.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: As mentioned below, there are lots of loose blocks by the dead Yew Tree. One of these is about the size of a toaster and could do with trundling on a quiet day.
SP 20 Jul, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: As noted below, the area around the old yew tree is unstable, it seems that there is a lot of material in there that could come out with relatively little persuasion. It is possible to cross this to the anchor at the tree above, but a lot of care needed- there are several large blocks that are moving.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: As noted below, the area around the old yew tree is unstable, it seems that there is a lot of material in there that could come out with relatively little persuasion. It is possible to cross this to the anchor at the tree above, but a lot of care needed- there are several large blocks that are moving.
orangesmartie61 22 Sep, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: There are dangerously loose blocks left of the dead yew tree on the ramp to the belay. Also the insitu threads are very old, most can be rethreaded on route except the one at the crux.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: There are dangerously loose blocks left of the dead yew tree on the ramp to the belay. Also the insitu threads are very old, most can be rethreaded on route except the one at the crux.
Alan James - Rockfax 25 Apr, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Superb climbing. The higher tree belay is solid.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Superb climbing. The higher tree belay is solid.
Chris the Tall 16 Jul, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Great climbing on clean rock. Virtually a clip-up due to the threads. Long reach helps.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Great climbing on clean rock. Virtually a clip-up due to the threads. Long reach helps.
John Alcock 31 May, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Fun, Ardeche style climbing. The crux move right is pushing 6a is you have a short reach. The crux threads are not re-threadable on the lead, so the route will become scary as they wear out.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Fun, Ardeche style climbing. The crux move right is pushing 6a is you have a short reach. The crux threads are not re-threadable on the lead, so the route will become scary as they wear out.

Logged Ascents

282 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Dovedale

Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks 37 users have this on their wishlist

Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents

Voting
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
Votes cast 59
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 61
Votes cast 58
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Alt Leads
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Dogged
Redpoint
Ground Up
DNF
Not Set
Route of Interest
Moyer's Buttress

Grade: E1 5b ***
(Gardom's Edge)

Loading Notifications...