Restricted Access

The BMC has an agreement with the National Trust for fixed equipment in the dale. Put simply this is that like for like maintenance/replacement can take place as and when is needed but placement of new bolts would require agreement through the Peak Area meeting followed by approaching the National Trust for permission. There isn't a presumption of refusal by any means, but the National Trust understandably want to keep track of bolting activity in the Dale and in some cases they may need to apply for SSSI consent as landowner. The National Trust are extremely supportive of climbing in all it's forms in the Dale and it's important that we continue to cultivate our good relationship with them to ensure our needs as climbers are considered into the future. 

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 30 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

-  Tissington Spires - please avoid all routes on South Gully Buttress (Zulu Dawn to Amoeba inclusive) during the restriction period.

-  Ravens Tor - due to the nest location the whole crag is to be avoided for the restriction period.

40m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A wandering classic, taking a long diagonal line and giving strenuous but well-protected climbing with good rests.
1) 5a, 25m. From a large tree in the gully, trend left to reach the base of the crack (junction with George) then climb it as it leans over. Traverse right and climb up to a stance with some fixed gear.
2) 5a, 8m. Continue in the same line and then move up past the old yew tree to a fixed belay on tree above. It is possible to keep traversing rightwards and the first section is good but it rapidly deteriorates and descent becomes tricky although you might be able to get to a solid young tree. © Rockfax

FA. Pete (Trog) WIlliams, John (who peeled) Amies 1964.

Ticklists

Classic Rock Climbs In Northern England by Bill Birket , World Graded List , Peak Rock/10/White Life , Ultimate HVS ticklist , Definitive *** Peak Lime , On Peak Rock , Chris Jackson’s 100 Classic Limestone Climbs , Peak District Limestone Trad

Feedback

User Date Notes
Green_t 29 Apr, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Fixed belay at end of p1 and ab tat at the top both in very poor condition. Lots of loose rock around ab.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Fixed belay at end of p1 and ab tat at the top both in very poor condition. Lots of loose rock around ab.
Steve Pickersgill 13 Jul, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Loose material at top.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Loose material at top.
Annaproffitt 10 Jun, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Second pitch seems silly- doesn’t add to the route particulate but avoids big rope drag that would happen! Fixed belay gear is all in good condition
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Second pitch seems silly- doesn’t add to the route particulate but avoids big rope drag that would happen! Fixed belay gear is all in good condition
Tom Green 15 May, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Cleared the bigger loose blocks from between the dead stump and the abseil tree. Still a bit chossy but nothing too big on that section now.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Cleared the bigger loose blocks from between the dead stump and the abseil tree. Still a bit chossy but nothing too big on that section now.
SP 20 Jul, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Copied below is a note that is relevant to those wishing to lower off the tree above the old yew tree (as for Yew Tree Wall). "As noted below, the area around the old yew tree is unstable, it seems that there is a lot of material in there that could come out with relatively little persuasion. It is possible to cross this to the anchor at the tree above, but a lot of care needed- there are several large blocks that are moving."
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Copied below is a note that is relevant to those wishing to lower off the tree above the old yew tree (as for Yew Tree Wall). "As noted below, the area around the old yew tree is unstable, it seems that there is a lot of material in there that could come out with relatively little persuasion. It is possible to cross this to the anchor at the tree above, but a lot of care needed- there are several large blocks that are moving."
Chris the Tall 16 Jul, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Doing it in the traditional 3 pitch style gets a bit tedious after the yew tree
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Doing it in the traditional 3 pitch style gets a bit tedious after the yew tree
Blinder 13 May, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: brilliant route, staring up Geogre gives a harder but cleaner climbing.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: brilliant route, staring up Geogre gives a harder but cleaner climbing.

Logged Ascents

293 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Dovedale

Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks 84 users have this on their wishlist

Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents

Voting
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 66
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 64
Votes cast 61
Style of Ascent
Lead
Alt Leads
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
DNF
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Redpoint
Not Set
Route of Interest
Cataclysm

Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Wildcat)

Loading Notifications...