Restricted Access
The BMC has an agreement with the National Trust for fixed equipment in the dale. Put simply this is that like for like maintenance/replacement can take place as and when is needed but placement of new bolts would require agreement through the Peak Area meeting followed by approaching the National Trust for permission. There isn't a presumption of refusal by any means, but the National Trust understandably want to keep track of bolting activity in the Dale and in some cases they may need to apply for SSSI consent as landowner. The National Trust are extremely supportive of climbing in all it's forms in the Dale and it's important that we continue to cultivate our good relationship with them to ensure our needs as climbers are considered into the future.Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 15 March to 30 June
Reason: Nesting Birds
Peregrines nests:
- Tissington Spires - please avoid all routes on South Gully Buttress (Zulu Dawn to Amoeba inclusive) during the restriction period.
- Ravens Tor - due to the nest location the whole crag is to be avoided for the restriction period.
Rockfax Description
42m. Uninspiring! Take the groove to a ledge then swing down right and pump along the break, passing The Claw to a ledge on the right - possible stance. Climb the groove then the ramp rightwards until escape onto the grassy ridge is possible. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
Climbs the west face of the buttress.
1) 6a, 23m. Climb a groove past a roof to a ledge. Hand traverse a break into "The Claw" and continue traversing right to a ledge.
2) 4c, 20m. Follow the corner to a ledge and finish rightwards up a fault that leads diagonally to the ridge.
(First Free Ascent - N.Foster, A.Rouse 1983)
T.Bolger, D.Constable (HVS & A1) 21/Nov/1970.
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Dovedale
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Waterloo Sunset
Grade: E3 5c ***
(Gardom's Edge)