Restricted Access

The BMC has an agreement with the National Trust for fixed equipment in the dale. Put simply this is that like for like maintenance/replacement can take place as and when is needed but placement of new bolts would require agreement through the Peak Area meeting followed by approaching the National Trust for permission. There isn't a presumption of refusal by any means, but the National Trust understandably want to keep track of bolting activity in the Dale and in some cases they may need to apply for SSSI consent as landowner. The National Trust are extremely supportive of climbing in all it's forms in the Dale and it's important that we continue to cultivate our good relationship with them to ensure our needs as climbers are considered into the future. 

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 30 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

-  Tissington Spires - please avoid all routes on South Gully Buttress (Zulu Dawn to Amoeba inclusive) during the restriction period.

-  Ravens Tor - due to the nest location the whole crag is to be avoided for the restriction period.

43m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
42m. Uninspiring! Take the groove to a ledge then swing down right and pump along the break, passing The Claw to a ledge on the right - possible stance. Climb the groove then the ramp rightwards until escape onto the grassy ridge is possible. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Climbs the west face of the buttress.
1) 6a, 23m. Climb a groove past a roof to a ledge. Hand traverse a break into "The Claw" and continue traversing right to a ledge.
2) 4c, 20m. Follow the corner to a ledge and finish rightwards up a fault that leads diagonally to the ridge.
(First Free Ascent - N.Foster, A.Rouse 1983)

T.Bolger, D.Constable (HVS & A1) 21/Nov/1970.


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Guidebooks for Dovedale

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High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Route of Interest
Remembering Theo

Grade: E3 5c ***
(Eldon Hole)

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