40m.

Rockfax Description
A magnificent climb - the best in the valley. From the toe of the buttress, trend up leftwards on good finger-holds and a line of threads. Swing down and left to a steep groove and sprint up this (old peg at its top). Swing left and, before gravity takes over, layback up into the welcome shade of the capping yew tree. © Rockfax

FA. Jack Street, Geoff Birtles (one rest) 1969.

Ticklists

Extreme Rock , Great Wall Climbs of the UK , Extreme Rock "Wall" Routes , Rockfax Peak Limestone (2012) Top 50 , 100 best limestone climbs in Britain , World Graded List , CLIMB Mag's Top 100 routes in Britain , Peak Rock/10/White Life , Ultimate E3 ticklist , Definitive *** Peak Lime , On Peak Rock , Hard Peak Limestone Trad , Chris Jackson’s 100 Classic Limestone Climbs , Peak To Do , Lime trad for hobbyists , Best Before 2025

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User Date Notes
steveb2006 10 May, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Done a few times in past, last being in 2002 but had a look last weekend (4/5/06) and noticed the 'crucial' thread / tat in the middle of the traverse is missing. The rock has actually broken so someone could have had quite a swing if came off on the traverse. I used to rely on just clipping the tat - did get a rock 2 in and a micro - these are lower than the tat was, but doesnt alter grade (though I did fail on rest of route this time - too pumped). Would be interested to know when the thread tat/thread was broken and if anyone had a surprising plummet. Note there are still a couple of threads on bit shared with Nancy Whiskey i.e. before traverse.
Show beta
βeta: Done a few times in past, last being in 2002 but had a look last weekend (4/5/06) and noticed the 'crucial' thread / tat in the middle of the traverse is missing. The rock has actually broken so someone could have had quite a swing if came off on the traverse. I used to rely on just clipping the tat - did get a rock 2 in and a micro - these are lower than the tat was, but doesnt alter grade (though I did fail on rest of route this time - too pumped). Would be interested to know when the thread tat/thread was broken and if anyone had a surprising plummet. Note there are still a couple of threads on bit shared with Nancy Whiskey i.e. before traverse.
Davros the Psyched 11 Jul, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Flippin brilliant route. Beautiful and complex moves thankfully broken into bite-size chunks by good rests and bomber gear. As of July '05 the threads were in a faded but pretty solid state.
βeta?
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βeta: Flippin brilliant route. Beautiful and complex moves thankfully broken into bite-size chunks by good rests and bomber gear. As of July '05 the threads were in a faded but pretty solid state.
Katya 19 Jan, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: A contender for the best E3 in the Peak.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: A contender for the best E3 in the Peak.

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High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
Votes cast 58
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 58
Votes cast 51
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Repeated
Flashed (β)
DNF
Ground Up
Redpoint
Not Set
Route of Interest
Nutcracker

Grade: E3 6a ***
(Cratcliffe Tor)

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