80m, 3 pitches.
Turfy mixed route on the buttress between Special Delivery and South Pipe. Start at the entrance to South Pipe (the righthand corner of the buttress).
1. 30m Step left around the arête onto the face. Climb up several metres to a turf ledge. Make an awkward move leftwards to the end of the ledge. Follow a turfy ramp up and left to reach a second longer turf ledge. Traverse this leftwards for 5m to belay at a perched block in a right facing corner system.
2. Climb the corner above the perched block to a ledge. Move right and climb a short wall to another ledge. Climb a corner on the left and then easier ground to a belay near the top of the buttress.
3. Overcome some short walls above the belay to reach a left facing corner. Climb this to reach the top right hand corner of the buttress (overlooking South Pipe).
1. 30m Step left around the arête onto the face. Climb up several metres to a turf ledge. Make an awkward move leftwards to the end of the ledge. Follow a turfy ramp up and left to reach a second longer turf ledge. Traverse this leftwards for 5m to belay at a perched block in a right facing corner system.
2. Climb the corner above the perched block to a ledge. Move right and climb a short wall to another ledge. Climb a corner on the left and then easier ground to a belay near the top of the buttress.
3. Overcome some short walls above the belay to reach a left facing corner. Climb this to reach the top right hand corner of the buttress (overlooking South Pipe).
Peter Davies and Michael Gardner 11/Feb/2024.
* This newly updated climb is waiting to be checked by the crag moderator.
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Route of Interest
Tir na Og
Grade: V 5 ***
(Ladhar Bheinn)