Rockfax Description
220m. The crack system running straight up the frontal face. From below, the route is dominated by a big roof 50m up. Start close to the left wall of the big recess at the lowest point of the face, below the big roof.
1. 40m 4b Climb steep rocks at the back of the recess for some 15m, then traverse the left wall using flakes to a ledge on the open face. Climb straight up the crack-line to a big grass ledge.
2. 20m 5c Move right from the ledge and go up cracked slabs to a shallow cave under the roof. Move awkwardly up left into a corner and climb this to a ledge (pulling on a runner reduces the grade to HVS 5a).
3. 50m 4b Follow the general line of the cracked ribs above, until under a short vertical wall. Go left up slabs to below a short leaning corner.
4. 10m 4b Climb the corner then right to ledges.
5. 30m 4c The right-trending line with a prominent peg is not the line you are looking for! Instead, climb a short wall to gain a slab under the roof, surmount the bulge some 2m left of the roof, then traverse a narrow slab right above the roof and go up to ledges.
6, 7. 70m 4b Climb the upper crack system to grass ledges. Scramble left up to the plateau.
FA A.Fyffe, J.Bower (2PA), 9 Jun 1968
FA M.Fowler, P.Thomas (FFA), Jun 1977 © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Effectively a VS route with a hard E1 5c move on pitch 2. Some parties choose to aid this section pulling on slings and pegs, reducing the grade to Shame.

Ticklists

Hard Rock , Ultimate Scottish Rock , Scottish 3 and 4 star multi-pitch routes , Ultimate E1 ticklist , Great Scottish E1 Mountain Routes , UK Holiday Plans , Hard Rock 2020 , Garry Latter, Scottish Ticklist up to VS , Scottish Climbing Best 10 E1 list? , RGU Shelterstone , Ultimate Scottish Trad Ticklist E1 to E5 , Scottish Hard Rock 2020 , Climb like a rodent , Gary Latter's Scottish Rock Ticklist , Carrotte's summer sends (multi pitch edition) , Scotland climbing , Dan's Scottish Summer Hopefuls

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