A fine, if somewhat baffling route.
1) 5a, 18m. Climb the V-chimney to its end. Pull up to a horizontal crack, then scuttle right onto the ledge. Care is required to create a sound belay, small wires useful.
2) 5b, 32m. Move right and gain the groove above with some bamboozling manoeuvres. Follow this to gain Bilberry Ledge. © Rockfax
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