The current access situation at Craig y Forwyn has had a long and troubled past- it wasn't long ago that there was no access and climbing was totally banned. Now thanks to the efforts of Volunteers and Officers the situation has improved and the situation is better than its been for years.
The Behaviour of climbers when visiting the crag is crucial to this situation continuing and improving.
The ownership of the crag varies along its length and more information can be found below, however its safe to assume that climbing is tolerated and is NOT a right. If you climb here, please do so quietly and inconspicuously as possible.
User | Date | Notes | ||
---|---|---|---|---|
Steve Long | 29 Jul, 2020 |
Show βeta
βeta: Probable ground fall if the gear in the horizontal pocket blows; so here is the beta. A small pocket above this allows the in-situ long thread on Great Wall to be clipped with a gripper-clipper or QD with karabiner gate wedged open with a short stick. Still feels quite bold, but MUCH safer. The 6m traverse out of Great Wall is longer than necessary. At about 3 metres, directly below the left end of the flake roof a high jug in the grey rock allows a rockover to reach the flake. Nice. | ||
Show beta
βeta: Probable ground fall if the gear in the horizontal pocket blows; so here is the beta. A small pocket above this allows the in-situ long thread on Great Wall to be clipped with a gripper-clipper or QD with karabiner gate wedged open with a short stick. Still feels quite bold, but MUCH safer. The 6m traverse out of Great Wall is longer than necessary. At about 3 metres, directly below the left end of the flake roof a high jug in the grey rock allows a rockover to reach the flake. Nice. |
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Grade: E4 6a ***
(Castell y Gwynt)