UKH

Rockfax Description
A stunning route - sustained with a hard pull through the roof on the second pitch. Start at the foot of a slab, below a large roof.
1) 4b, 28m. Climb up the slab just to the right of the tree that dominates the central grove. Near the top, traverse right under the roof to gain a ledge above and right.
2) 6a, 25m. Move down and traverse above the lip of the roof. Follow this then step up to the next roof and scuttle sideways to below a prominent groove. Move up the groove to a small niche and move up and right (possible peg?) to the final roof. A stiff pull through this is rewarded with a large jug and relief. Follow the groove above to the ledge and belay.
3) 4b, 10m. Move up and left from the belay on rock with amazing friction, then trend up and left to the top. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
This route was traditionally aided, hence grades of HVS in some guidebooks. Nowadays the approaches to the aid section (pitch 2) are very polished, adding to the difficulty. If you want to do without the aid, then be warned that 'grade' is very reach-dependent, probably 6a on average. If you aid it, then check the condition of the pegs, but note that you can get wires in just above them. After the crux, the route degenerates into unsatisfying scrambling. This route goes through sensational territory, but I find it hard to recommend it.

Ticklists

North Wales Rock Graded List , North Wales 100 Classic Climbs , Ultimate E2 ticklist , Tremadog 2018/2019 , George's Ultimate Easy to Mid-Grade North Wales Trad Ticklist

Feedback

User Date Notes
spidey 4 Jul, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Second / highest peg is in poor condition insitu wire and lower peg not far away though.
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βeta: Second / highest peg is in poor condition insitu wire and lower peg not far away though.
Siongethinhill 31 May, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Ab off at the top left.
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βeta: Ab off at the top left.
193 31 May, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: I find it hard to recommend the UKC version of things. very good route as shown by the stars in the voting
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βeta: I find it hard to recommend the UKC version of things. very good route as shown by the stars in the voting
myrddinmuse 8 May, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Can't believe Livsey did this solo in Hush Puppies
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βeta: Can't believe Livsey did this solo in Hush Puppies

Logged Ascents

169 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Craig y Castell (Tremadog)

Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks 33 users have this on their wishlist

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Voting
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
Votes cast 32
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 31
Votes cast 33
Style of Ascent
Lead
Alt Leads
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Repeated
DNF
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
Not Set
Route of Interest
Zarquon/Resurrection/Erection

Grade: E2 5c ***
(Llechog (Cwm Clogwyn))

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