A stunning route - sustained with a hard pull through the roof on the second pitch. Start at the foot of a slab, below a large roof.
1) 4b, 28m. Climb up the slab just to the right of the tree that dominates the central grove. Near the top, traverse right under the roof to gain a ledge above and right.
2) 6a, 25m. Move down and traverse above the lip of the roof. Follow this then step up to the next roof and scuttle sideways to below a prominent groove. Move up the groove to a small niche and move up and right (possible peg?) to the final roof. A stiff pull through this is rewarded with a large jug and relief. Follow the groove above to the ledge and belay.
3) 4b, 10m. Move up and left from the belay on rock with amazing friction, then trend up and left to the top. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
This route was traditionally aided, hence grades of HVS in some guidebooks. Nowadays the approaches to the aid section (pitch 2) are very polished, adding to the difficulty. If you want to do without the aid, then be warned that 'grade' is very reach-dependent, probably 6a on average. If you aid it, then check the condition of the pegs, but note that you can get wires in just above them. After the crux, the route degenerates into unsatisfying scrambling. This route goes through sensational territory, but I find it hard to recommend it.
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