The fine central offwidth provides a mighty struggle on an unsung Welsh gem.
1) 4a, 25m. 5m left of the lowest point of the buttress is a chimney. Follow this past a small ledge to gain a slabby groove on the right. Climb this and move left to belay on a grassy ledge.
2) 5a, 20m. Gain the offwidth-crack which looms above and fight up it using the chockstones for protection and holds - a big cam might be useful but is a little unsporting. Belay at the top of the crack.
3) 4a, 25m. Move right to the rib and climb this until a stride left gains a square-cut groove. Follow this to a belay on easier ground. Scramble off. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
4 Pitch - 1.3c 2.5a 3.3c 4.Scramble
100 More Classic British VS Climbs, North Wales Rock Graded List, Kirkus Routes, 100 Best Wales Mid Grade Climbs, Glyn's North Wales mid-grade ticklist, Magical mysterious and unusual beasts of rock & myth, The climbs of Menlove Edwards and Colin Kirkus, George's Ultimate Easy to Mid-Grade North Wales Trad Ticklist, Colin Kirkus' routes
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