This attractive spur is much more technical than Broad Gully Ridge. It tackles the edge of cliff in an impressively exposed position. The difficulty is short lived - in the initial 100m up the left side of the prominent buttress. The rock is reasonably quick drying and gets morning sun. Start below the left-hand edge of the crag.
1) Climb a slab to the right of a rib. Continue up over blocks, ignoring the easier gully to the left, to reach a short hand-crack.
2) Hand jam up the crack to a spike. Easy climbing follows for the next 10m until a smooth barrier blocks progress above some ledges.
3) Traverse the ledges rightwards to their end then go up a flake handrail heading right. This leads to the edge of the buttress and an outrageously exposed position.
4) Carry on up on good holds - a few mantelshelf moves required.
5) Turn left and head much more easily up another ridge towards the East Ridge of Pen yr Ole Wen. More care is needed with loose rock on this easier upper section.
Descent - Head down the East Ridge of Pen yr Ole Wen. Alternatively descend the back of the initial tricky section up the main buttress and down and right to the base of the crag. This enables you to do Broad Gully Ridge if you wish. © Rockfax
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