Rockfax Description
A technical and bold first pitch gives access to the well-positioned upper flake-crack.
1) 4b, 15m. Start at the foot of the arete. Climb initially just on the right of the arete, switching back left after a couple of metres to reach a ledge and thin crack (this point can be gained more easily from the gully on the left). Arrange small wires then balance up the remaining arete to gain a large ledge and belay.
2) 4b, 20m. Climb the groove above the belay to a ledge. Make a steep move to gain a delightful slab/rib. Climb this to a grassy ledge below the final slab. Either climb straight up to the base of the leaning flake-crack and climb this to an exciting finish, or take the slabby arete on the right as for Mr. Ranger and traverse left to belay off the tree. © Rockfax

Ticklists

UK Holiday Plans , George's Ultimate Easy to Mid-Grade North Wales Trad Ticklist , North Wales Summer 21' , BSR multipitch routes

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User Date Notes
emcawte 11 May, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Pitch 1
βeta?
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βeta: Pitch 1
locksbury 6 Mar, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: So good, did it twice, AL P1, then P2. :)
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βeta: So good, did it twice, AL P1, then P2. :)
Stacy Hackner 1 Jun, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Warning: abundant nettles at the walk-up.
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βeta: Warning: abundant nettles at the walk-up.
Felix Ottey 13 Jul, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Great route nice lead by my partner russ on the wet first pitch.
βeta?
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βeta: Great route nice lead by my partner russ on the wet first pitch.

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High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 134
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
High 4a
Mid 4a
Low 4a
Votes cast 125
Votes cast 115
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Dogged
DNF
Redpoint
Not Set
Route of Interest
Grey Slab

Grade: VS 4b ***
(Glyder Fawr)

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