A technical and bold first pitch gives access to the well-positioned upper flake-crack.
1) 4b, 15m. Start at the foot of the arete. Climb initially just on the right of the arete, switching back left after a couple of metres to reach a ledge and thin crack (this point can be gained more easily from the gully on the left). Arrange small wires then balance up the remaining arete to gain a large ledge and belay.
2) 4b, 20m. Climb the groove above the belay to a ledge. Make a steep move to gain a delightful slab/rib. Climb this to a grassy ledge below the final slab. Either climb straight up to the base of the leaning flake/crack and climb this to an exciting finish, or take the slabby arete on the right as for Mr Ranger and traverse left to belay off the tree. © Rockfax
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