Restricted Access

Owned and managed by the BMC for climbers, there are very few issues at Bwlch y Moch. However climbers are asked to observe a few points. On no account should the fence at the top of the crag be crossed - all of the land at the crag top is privately owned, including the cliff top path and an agreement is in place with the neighbouring farmer for a permissve path along the cliff top. There is no descent either behind the crag or to the east. If choosing to abseil ensure that a sling is placed around the tree to prevent damage and that you do not cause inconvenience or a hazard to other climbers -"look before you chuck" is the motto here! None of the abseil slings or fixed belays are maintained or inspected by the BMC -so please ensure that you are satisifed with their safety and suitability before using! Camping is not allowed at the crag and there are no toilets at the site, closest public toilets are in Porthmadog itself.

 

Warning

Loose Block on Momentum - Reports of a large loose block on Momentum the route that has now replaced Shadrach.

 

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 April to 31 May

Reason: Nesting Birds

Tawny Owls frequently nest in the hollow tree on the route Axeover. Please avoid  this routes and the slab and also please do not use the abseil descent down this slab until the end of May- for your well-being as much as for the owls. They can be very aggressive! 

Rockfax Description
All the strenuous climbing that you would expect on Geireagle seems to have been transferred to this one. Very pumpy! Start as for Geireagle, but step up onto the rising line to gain the higher crack. Climb this, past a triangular niche, to join and finish up Geireagle. © Rockfax

Ticklists

The Tremadog 'V's' , North Wales Rock Graded List , Trad climbs for sport climbers , Alex's Wales ticklist , Ultimate E4 ticklist , Welsh climbs to last a lifetime

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Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Craig Bwlch y Moch (Tremadog)

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Voting
High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
Votes cast 25
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 24
Votes cast 25
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Repeated
Redpoint
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
The Illusionist

Grade: E4 6a ***
(Clogwyn yr Eryr (Crafnant))

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