The approach is a little awkward, but the final groove is well worth it. Scramble up a steep vegetated path through the undergrowth to a sloping ledge below the steep wall.
The link of P1 of Zukator and P2 of Grasper is arguably even better then the original but worth E3.
1) 5c, 20m. Climb up a shallow groove to a tiny ledge. Move round the rib on the left to a niche. Pull out left again round a rib, then climb a groove to a small roof. Heave round this then use a crack on the left to move up to a well-positioned stance below the intimidating groove.
2) 5c, 15m. Move right and climb the brilliant and very sustained groove with a hard pull to finish. © Rockfax
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