Restricted Access
Owned and managed by the BMC for climbers, there are very few issues at Bwlch y Moch. However climbers are asked to observe a few points. On no account should the fence at the top of the crag be crossed - all of the land at the crag top is privately owned, including the cliff top path and an agreement is in place with the neighbouring farmer for a permissve path along the cliff top. There is no descent either behind the crag or to the east. If choosing to abseil ensure that a sling is placed around the tree to prevent damage and that you do not cause inconvenience or a hazard to other climbers -"look before you chuck" is the motto here! None of the abseil slings or fixed belays are maintained or inspected by the BMC -so please ensure that you are satisifed with their safety and suitability before using! Camping is not allowed at the crag and there are no toilets at the site, closest public toilets are in Porthmadog itself.
Warning
Loose Block on Momentum - Reports of a large loose block on Momentum the route that has now replaced Shadrach.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 April to 31 May
Reason: Nesting Birds
Tawny Owls frequently nest in the hollow tree on the route Axeover. Please avoid this routes and the slab and also please do not use the abseil descent down this slab until the end of May- for your well-being as much as for the owls. They can be very aggressive!
Rockfax Description
A bit on an eliminate given the proximity of Dagrau. Start just right of Dagrau at the base of a short corner. Technical climbing leads up to a small groove through a roof. Make further tricky moves directly up this to the top. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
Gain the thin crack on right and follow it to a ledge. Pull up rightward onto a slab and move up to the sentry box niche in the overhang. pull over the overhang finishing up the right- hand side of the wall. In situ abseil descent point.
Note . For some strange reason the route names and descriptions have been swopped over. Dagrau which is the right hand of the 2 routes was described as Llafur in the previous guide and Llafur was Dagrau. Very odd ?
Ticklists
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| dinodinosaur | 29 Apr |
Show βeta
βeta: This is the only real line here. Dagrau is the one that is squeezed in (starting as for tro according to the definitive). Microwires essential at the grade | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: This is the only real line here. Dagrau is the one that is squeezed in (starting as for tro according to the definitive). Microwires essential at the grade |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Craig Bwlch y Moch (Tremadog)
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Barbarian
Grade: E1 5b ***
(Craig Pant Ifan (Tremadog))