Owned and managed by the BMC for climbers, there are very few issues at Bwlch y Moch. However climbers are asked to observe a few points. On no account should the fence at the top of the crag be crossed - all of the land at the crag top is privately owned, including the cliff top path and an agreement is in place with the neighbouring farmer for a permissve path along the cliff top. There is no descent either behind the crag or to the east. If choosing to abseil ensure that a sling is placed around the tree to prevent damage and that you do not cause inconvenience or a hazard to other climbers -"look before you chuck" is the motto here! None of the abseil slings or fixed belays are maintained or inspected by the BMC -so please ensure that you are satisifed with their safety and suitability before using! Camping is not allowed at the crag and there are no toilets at the site, closest public toilets are in Porthmadog itself.
Warning
Loose Block on Momentum - Reports of a large loose block on Momentum the route that has now replaced Shadrach.
Dates: 1 April to 31 May
Reason: Nesting Birds
Tawny Owls frequently nest in the hollow tree on the route Axeover. Please avoid this routes and the slab and also please do not use the abseil descent down this slab until the end of May- for your well-being as much as for the owls. They can be very aggressive!
Rockfax Description
A great combination that takes in many of the delights of this wall. Can be done in one long 55m pitch if you have 60m ropes. Start just to the right of Grim Wall Direct at another small crack behind a tree.
1) 5c, 35m. Move up a crack into a groove and onto a ledge. Move diagonally right to gain a small corner and ascend this to a step right onto the flake of Grim Wall. Make a tricky sequence of moves up the slab rightwards to gain a break. Move up and right across the slab and continue across to the Meshach-Shadrach belay by the rock scar.
2) 5c, 20m. Move back left and climb up to a wide crack in the final roof and head up this to the top. © Rockfax
Stared Tremadog E1's , Definitive *** Tremadog , Jonesy's leg day ticklist , North Wales To Do List
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Grade: E2 5b ***
(Clogwyn y Wenallt)