Restricted Access

Owned and managed by the BMC for climbers, there are very few issues at Bwlch y Moch. However climbers are asked to observe a few points. On no account should the fence at the top of the crag be crossed - all of the land at the crag top is privately owned, including the cliff top path and an agreement is in place with the neighbouring farmer for a permissve path along the cliff top. There is no descent either behind the crag or to the east. If choosing to abseil ensure that a sling is placed around the tree to prevent damage and that you do not cause inconvenience or a hazard to other climbers -"look before you chuck" is the motto here! None of the abseil slings or fixed belays are maintained or inspected by the BMC -so please ensure that you are satisifed with their safety and suitability before using! Camping is not allowed at the crag and there are no toilets at the site, closest public toilets are in Porthmadog itself.

 

Warning

Loose Block on Momentum - Reports of a large loose block on Momentum the route that has now replaced Shadrach.

 

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 April to 31 May

Reason: Nesting Birds

Tawny Owls frequently nest in the hollow tree on the route Axeover. Please avoid  this routes and the slab and also please do not use the abseil descent down this slab until the end of May- for your well-being as much as for the owls. They can be very aggressive! 

11m. start up Trivial Pursuits in the bay where the top pitch of oberon and emotional crisis can be found. climb the thin crack initially, to clip peg and continue for a few moves to the base of the groove, from here make a reach left to a crimp in the centre of the wall and continue trending left to the arete. rp2 in thin vertical crack. make a few moves up the arete left of the rp before stepping back on to the face for final finishing moves to top out on the square cut top.

Ryan Mcconnell 17/Oct/2010.

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Guidebooks for Craig Bwlch y Moch (Tremadog)

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High E6
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High E5
Mid E5
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Route of Interest
Poetry Pink

Grade: E5 6b ***
(Rainbow Slab Area)

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