Restricted Access
Owned and managed by the BMC for climbers, there are very few issues at Bwlch y Moch. However climbers are asked to observe a few points. On no account should the fence at the top of the crag be crossed - all of the land at the crag top is privately owned, including the cliff top path and an agreement is in place with the neighbouring farmer for a permissve path along the cliff top. There is no descent either behind the crag or to the east. If choosing to abseil ensure that a sling is placed around the tree to prevent damage and that you do not cause inconvenience or a hazard to other climbers -"look before you chuck" is the motto here! None of the abseil slings or fixed belays are maintained or inspected by the BMC -so please ensure that you are satisifed with their safety and suitability before using! Camping is not allowed at the crag and there are no toilets at the site, closest public toilets are in Porthmadog itself.
Warning
Loose Block on Momentum - Reports of a large loose block on Momentum the route that has now replaced Shadrach.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 April to 31 May
Reason: Nesting Birds
Tawny Owls frequently nest in the hollow tree on the route Axeover. Please avoid this routes and the slab and also please do not use the abseil descent down this slab until the end of May- for your well-being as much as for the owls. They can be very aggressive!
Rockfax Description
Part 1 of the Welsh 'Blood, Sweat and Tears' trilogy. Start 6m left of Chwys, below some broken ground leading to a ledge with a perfect thin hand-crack up a corner.
1) 5b, 25m. Climb up to the crack and follow it to a small ledge. Go up a slab and a thin crack to reach a roof. Tricky moves left around this lead to awkward bridging in a hanging groove. Make a bold step left onto an undercut nose. A long move diagonally up right gains jugs. Slabby climbing leads to a belay ledge.
2) 4c 12m. Go up and right to a ledge and then the flake on the left leads to the top. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
Welsh for 'Blood'
Ticklists
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Alex Riley | 8 Oct, 2023 |
Show βeta
βeta: Rockfax description is correct. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Rockfax description is correct. |
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| agour | 3 Jul, 2023 |
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βeta: Pretty sure description in rockfax is wrong.. It states after stepping from the slab into the corner, step left. We went right here and the rest of description made sense (long move up right to jugs). | ||
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Show beta
βeta: Pretty sure description in rockfax is wrong.. It states after stepping from the slab into the corner, step left. We went right here and the rest of description made sense (long move up right to jugs). |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Craig Bwlch y Moch (Tremadog)
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A Touch of Class
Grade: E1 5c ***
(Drws y Gwynt)