Restricted Access
Owned and managed by the BMC for climbers, there are very few issues at Bwlch y Moch. However climbers are asked to observe a few points. On no account should the fence at the top of the crag be crossed - all of the land at the crag top is privately owned, including the cliff top path and an agreement is in place with the neighbouring farmer for a permissve path along the cliff top. There is no descent either behind the crag or to the east. If choosing to abseil ensure that a sling is placed around the tree to prevent damage and that you do not cause inconvenience or a hazard to other climbers -"look before you chuck" is the motto here! None of the abseil slings or fixed belays are maintained or inspected by the BMC -so please ensure that you are satisifed with their safety and suitability before using! Camping is not allowed at the crag and there are no toilets at the site, closest public toilets are in Porthmadog itself.
Warning
Loose Block on Momentum - Reports of a large loose block on Momentum the route that has now replaced Shadrach.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 April to 31 May
Reason: Nesting Birds
Tawny Owls frequently nest in the hollow tree on the route Axeover. Please avoid this routes and the slab and also please do not use the abseil descent down this slab until the end of May- for your well-being as much as for the owls. They can be very aggressive!
Rockfax Description
The first route on the Bwlch y Moch is a pleasant outing, though the initial 8m is pretty much unprotected. Begin by scrambling to the start of Valerie's Rib. Continue up a little further and make an exposed traverse right to the base of the route. Some may want to rope up for this traverse.
1) 25m, From the ledge, go up the left side of the buttress, past a tree with a sawn off branch - this branch is the only runner. Gain the slab and move delicately up with no protection until you gain a groove on the right and gear. Ascend this groove briefly until you can move right below a steepening to gain a more direct crack that leads up to a spacious ledge and tree belay.
2) 28m. Move up and right, keeping to the rock where possible to gain the deep alcove up and left. From the back of the alcove, go up left to gain the arete and then follow this up to the top. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
first route from the cafe, care required on approach, some of the roughest rock left at Tremadog.
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Dog Dave | 4 Sep, 2019 |
Show βeta
βeta: Wasp nest in a hole near the big tree at start of pitch 1, enough room to get past onto the spike but be careful not to put a hand in it | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Wasp nest in a hole near the big tree at start of pitch 1, enough room to get past onto the spike but be careful not to put a hand in it |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Craig Bwlch y Moch (Tremadog)
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Direct Route
Grade: HVD ***
(Tryfan)