UKH

Rockfax Description
The right-hand Slip is even more technical.
1) 5c, 35m. As for Leg Slip but move right at the top of the first groove below the roof to a ledge at the base of the beautiful upper groove. Climb this with sustained interest to a good ledge, either taking the blank groove direct, or by moving out onto the arete.
2) 4b, 12m. Easier climbing leads up the arete and rough ground to a tree belay. Abseil off. © Rockfax

Ticklists

North Wales Rock Graded List , UK Extreme Corners , North Wales 100 Classic Climbs , Bangor BUMS Uni-Life Ticklist , Stared Tremadog E1's , "A Graded List of a Few Welsh Climbs" Aka ROGER'S LIST , Tremadog 2018/2019 , Jonesy's leg day ticklist

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User Date Notes
Benjaminwill 8 Aug, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Save a green cam and some microwires for the belay as what's left of the pegs are in very poor condition.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Save a green cam and some microwires for the belay as what's left of the pegs are in very poor condition.
kylelewin 31 May, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: DNF Had to bail CRAG SWAG - Left 2 nuts and maillons in the roof, tough tags on one of the nuts if anyone finds it and reads this. Fine up the first groove, arranged gear and moved out across the traverse (stiff but easier than it looks). stood up on the ledge at the base of the second groove and realised that this was the crux. Even if I had of set off up the 2nd groove, my ropes were run awkwardly into the roof (causing drag) and I was light on gear by this point. After climbing back and forth across the traverse to attempt to regain some of my rack we eventually bailed. One to come back for, next time I would climb the 1st groove on one rope and then extend the gear under the roof even more. then once on the 2nd groove I would start on the second rope and protect it with smaller nuts. in theory of course... I'd still have to climb a thin 5c groove lol. Quality route but above my paygrade at the moment.
Show beta
βeta: DNF Had to bail CRAG SWAG - Left 2 nuts and maillons in the roof, tough tags on one of the nuts if anyone finds it and reads this. Fine up the first groove, arranged gear and moved out across the traverse (stiff but easier than it looks). stood up on the ledge at the base of the second groove and realised that this was the crux. Even if I had of set off up the 2nd groove, my ropes were run awkwardly into the roof (causing drag) and I was light on gear by this point. After climbing back and forth across the traverse to attempt to regain some of my rack we eventually bailed. One to come back for, next time I would climb the 1st groove on one rope and then extend the gear under the roof even more. then once on the 2nd groove I would start on the second rope and protect it with smaller nuts. in theory of course... I'd still have to climb a thin 5c groove lol. Quality route but above my paygrade at the moment.
Iain Weymouth 26 Feb, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Dunc forgot rock boots so seconded in trainers... respect!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Dunc forgot rock boots so seconded in trainers... respect!

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Guidebooks for Craig Bwlch y Moch (Tremadog)

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Voting
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
Votes cast 84
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 81
Votes cast 69
Style of Ascent
Lead
Alt Leads
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
DNF
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Crucible

Grade: E1 5b ***
(Craig Yr Ogof (Cwm Silyn))

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