UKH

300m, 5 pitches. 5 pitches - located eastern side above Ffynnon lloer.
Solo top and bottom pitch
Directly left of the lake. Look up left to obvious gulley left of buttress.
Pitch 1- solo up to safe belay point. Cluster of rock at the bottom of the opening of the gully.
Pitch 2- rope up the gulley for about 50 m. Passing to the left of the fork. Build belay on obvious crack on the fork.
Pitch 3- continue up gulley with good gear placements on the left. Two difficult ledges once over comfortable climbing. Set up belay on right side of rocks 5m after 2nd ledge.
Pitch 4- continue up the gulley passing to the left of the large Boulder a couple of flakes for protection. Continue up go vertical ice wall. Flakes for protection, up vertical ice wall. Set up belay to the left on large flake after verticle finishes.
Pitch 5- solo heading south west up easy slope to summit.
Decend via path heading south west.
Bring a head torch and don't start at 4:15 in the afternoon.

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User Date Notes
Gwin 2 Mar, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: This doesn’t sound like a new climb, sounds more like one of the gullies on Craig Lloer.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: This doesn’t sound like a new climb, sounds more like one of the gullies on Craig Lloer.

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