The whole Eglwyseg escarpment is both a Site Of Special Scientific Interest. This means that any deliberate or reckless damage or disturbance to the features of the site (inc. to nesting birds, vegetation clearance or drilling) could be regarded as a criminal act.
Dates: 15 February to 15 July
Reason: Nesting Birds
Restrictions normally apply from the route "Black & Blue" to the far south side of the crag ("Freshly Dug") inclusive - all routes between and including these routes are usually restricted from Feb 15th until July 15th. Look out for marker posts on the cliff base to confirm the restrictions. All routes on the right hand side of Nemesis wall sector and all of Dawn Buttress sector are affected by this restriction.
Rockfax Description
A stunning, action-packed line involving a great deal of difficult climbing with a high crux. The streaked ramp is slow to dry and can be dirty. Start beneath the base of the ramp. Climb the wall past a bolt to the ramp. At the top of the ramp make blind moves up the steep wall, past two pegs, to reach the upper of two breaks. Move a little left then climb the fine pocketed wall rightwards, past a thread, to an intimidating perch beneath the roof. Traverse left (peg over lip - difficult to clip) and pull over the roof with difficulty, to a short wall and the top. © Rockfax
FA. John Moulding, John Codling 5.84 with rests, free climbed the same year by Andy Pollitt May/1984.
Paul Dearden's classic rock climbs , Clwyd Limestone *** Routes
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Grade: E6 6c ***
(Craig Arthur)