Restricted Access
The crag is not mapped as open country under CRoW, something that may surprise anyone who has climbed there. It is, however, in the ownership of the National Trust and access made available by the trust. BMC is taking up the CRoW mapping issue with Natural England. Please be aware peregrine have nested at the crag. If you observe them during the Spring months, please do not disturb them during this sensitive period - give the nest site a wide berth.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 March to 30 September
Reason: Nesting Birds
Peregrine nest found next to Sausage Juice on 18/5/2024.
Best advice is to avoid crag. Certainly avoid the specified routes, and those around them. But if you are there look out for behaviour including:
- Birds flying in front of the crag repeatedly with persistent calling
- Any aggressive behaviour
- Repeated bird activity in the same area
If this behaviour is observed, please withdraw as quickly as possible to avoid the chicks or eggs becoming chilled causing them to perish.
It is a criminal offense to intentionally or recklessly kill, injure or take a Peregrine.
Rockfax Description
34m. A great classic. It can be done in two pitches. From the toe of the buttress, trend up and right to the rib and climb this past awkward moves to reach the base of the wider upper crack system. Climb this - tricky at the overhang - and finish up a short wall at the back of the final ledge. © Rockfax
Ticklists
Connoisseur's Classic Rock , Classic County , Classic Rock Climbs In Northern England by Bill Birket , 50 Best HS Routes in the UK. , Rockfax Northern England Top 50 , County Classics 24hr Challenge , T&S TS , County Classics Challenge , ROCKFAX TOP 50s upto e3
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
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| Badgerbadger | 18 Jun, 2023 |
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βeta: Note to seconders: probably don't bother trying to carry up shoes on your belt if you're fancying that squeeze chimney. I tried and then dropped them down the crag as I desperately attempted to swap them to a different position so I could enter the squeeze. | ||
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βeta: Note to seconders: probably don't bother trying to carry up shoes on your belt if you're fancying that squeeze chimney. I tried and then dropped them down the crag as I desperately attempted to swap them to a different position so I could enter the squeeze. |
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| olivia saunders | 2 Apr, 2022 |
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βeta: Lots of loose blocks, have marked a surreptitious one with a big chalky x as it would otherwise be an obvious hand hold to use maybe 1/3 of the way up | βeta? | |
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βeta: Lots of loose blocks, have marked a surreptitious one with a big chalky x as it would otherwise be an obvious hand hold to use maybe 1/3 of the way up |
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| Ian McNeill | 14 Aug, 2020 |
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βeta: Cracking line good friction and a thrutchy chimney | ||
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βeta: Cracking line good friction and a thrutchy chimney |
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| Sam Watchorn | 28 Jul, 2020 |
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βeta: Just when you think its over, the squeeze chimney begins | ||
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βeta: Just when you think its over, the squeeze chimney begins |
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| Tom Fullen | 14 May, 2020 |
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βeta: Lots of wobbly blocks in the first half. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Lots of wobbly blocks in the first half. |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Crag Lough
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Great Chimney
Grade: HS 4b ***
(Crag Lough)