The crag is not mapped as open country under CRoW, something that may surprise anyone who has climbed there. It is, however, in the ownership of the National Trust and access made available by the trust. BMC is taking up the CRoW mapping issue with Natural England. Please be aware peregrine have nested at the crag. If you observe them during the Spring months, please do not disturb them during this sensitive period - give the nest site a wide berth.
Dates: 1 March to 30 September
Reason: Nesting Birds
Peregrine nest found next to Sausage Juice on 18/5/2024.
Best advice is to avoid crag. Certainly avoid the specified routes, and those around them. But if you are there look out for behaviour including:
If this behaviour is observed, please withdraw as quickly as possible to avoid the chicks or eggs becoming chilled causing them to perish.
It is a criminal offense to intentionally or recklessly kill, injure or take a Peregrine.
Rockfax Description
22m. A little devious but with excellent, varied and exposed climbing. Head up the awkward left-leaning groove, then move left and climb Grad's Groove until holds lead out right. Climb the crack and continuation flake to a small ledge, then move delicately right into Y Climb to finish. The Direct Version is a good HVS 5b. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
The lower crack can be climbed direct (avoiding Grad's Groove) and a delicate direct finish up the arĂȘte is recommended (avoiding Y Climb).
User | Date | Notes | ||
---|---|---|---|---|
Alison Page | 18 Aug, 2022 |
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βeta: Beware - Wobbly block at top | βeta? | |
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βeta: Beware - Wobbly block at top |
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Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Kyloe-in-the-woods (Kyloe-In))