Restricted Access

The crag is not mapped as open country under CRoW, something that may surprise anyone who has climbed there. It is, however, in the ownership of the National Trust and access made available by the trust. BMC is taking up the CRoW mapping issue with Natural England. Please be aware peregrine have nested at the crag. If you observe them during the Spring months, please do not disturb them during this sensitive period - give the nest site a wide berth.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 30 September

Reason: Nesting Birds

Peregrine nest found next to Sausage Juice on 18/5/2024.

Best advice is to avoid crag. Certainly avoid the specified routes, and those around them. But if you are there look out for behaviour including:

  • Birds flying in front of the crag repeatedly with persistent calling
  • Any aggressive behaviour
  • Repeated bird activity in the same area

If this behaviour is observed, please withdraw as quickly as possible to avoid the chicks or eggs becoming chilled causing them to perish.

It is a criminal offense to intentionally or recklessly kill, injure or take a Peregrine.

Rockfax Description
22m. A little devious but with excellent, varied and exposed climbing. Head up the awkward left-leaning groove, then move left and climb Grad's Groove until holds lead out right. Climb the crack and continuation flake to a small ledge, then move delicately right into Y Climb to finish. The Direct Version is a good HVS 5b. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
The lower crack can be climbed direct (avoiding Grad's Groove) and a delicate direct finish up the arĂȘte is recommended (avoiding Y Climb).

Ticklists

Revenge List , *** County HVS

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User Date Notes
Alison Page 18 Aug, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Beware - Wobbly block at top
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βeta: Beware - Wobbly block at top

Logged Ascents

191 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Crag Lough

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Voting
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 41
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 39
Votes cast 35
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Redpoint
Repeated
Not Set
Route of Interest
The Crucifix

Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Kyloe-in-the-woods (Kyloe-In))

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