UKH

115m, 3 pitches.

Rockfax Description
One of the longest, most alluring and serious VS climbs in the West Country, Wrecker's Slab is nevertheless the most attempted of its genre on the coast. The huge, slim slab rising from the beach on the far right-hand side of the cliff has very little in the way of technical difficulty but should not be underestimated as the rock is poor, protection spaced and the situations very serious. Start at the base of the slab just right of the overhangs.

1) 4a, 35m. Make a couple of tricky moves to easier ground and work out leftwards along an easy-angled section of slab to the arete. Climb a loose corner groove just right of the arete to a good peg and then move up and right on more loose rock to a footledge stance and peg belays plus good nut belays 5m above.
2) 4b, 45m. Climb directly to the overlaps and pull through them onto the slab above. Climb the slab to a belay at a pillar on a grass terrace.
3) 4a, 45m. Climb up past the pillar to the easy-angled upper wall and follow this on its left side to the top of the slab and belay. A short scramble along a ridge is needed to finish. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
An amazing cliff, one of the best adventureous routes in the country. Make it a must to climb, what a fantastic day out. Oh and make sure you don't throw all the hand holds down to your belayer.

Ticklists

The 100 Best UK VS routes?, Connoisseur's Classic Rock, Classic Rock Climbs of Great Britain by Bill Birkett, Best slab climbs of the UK, Heather's Multipitch Climbs, West Country Climbs, MIA logbook must haves!, Alex's Cornwall and Devon ticklist, Best Multi-pitch Severe and Hard Severe, 100 Best South West Mid Grade Routes, Summer 2017, South West Classic VS's, Moving to Devon, South West Climbs - Pat Littlejohn (1st Ed.), The Devonman Cometh - Living in Exeter Top200., Culm Along

Feedback

User Date Notes
Tall Oak 16 Aug Show βeta
βeta: A fair chunk of rock came off from just off the second pitch. Luckily missed my legs and rocketed down the cliff. Stella lead by Max to hold it together on the blank section after the mini overhang.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: A fair chunk of rock came off from just off the second pitch. Luckily missed my legs and rocketed down the cliff. Stella lead by Max to hold it together on the blank section after the mini overhang.
DredStripe 22 Apr Show βeta
βeta: Descent. rope in situ and functional
Show beta
βeta: Descent. rope in situ and functional
Matt77 19 Jul, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: P1 and P3.
Show beta
βeta: P1 and P3.

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Votes cast 133
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High 4a
Mid 4a
Low 4a
Votes cast 129
Votes cast 135
Style of Ascent
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Route of Interest

Anvil Chorus

Grade: VS 4c ***
(Bosigran)
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