A great combination of the first pitch of a VS called Oxo and the steep and thrilling top pitch of Bovine.
1) 4b, 30m. Start 10m left of the wall that touches the crag. Climb up a few metres and traverse right to a small ledge. Continue rightwards, passing a pinnacle to reach a small flat wall, pass this and gain the ledge on the right. Good belay.
2) 4c, 28m. This is what you came for. Steep, exposed climbing on holds the size of buckets. Climb the groove above the ledge for 2m, make a hard move right to huge holds and blast-off directly up the wall. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
Given 3* in the latest guide, well worth it.
The 100 Best UK VS routes?, North Wales Rock Graded List, North Wales 100 Classic Climbs, 100 Best Wales Mid Grade Climbs, Glyn's North Wales mid-grade ticklist, George's Ultimate Easy to Mid-Grade North Wales Trad Ticklist, Welsh Roadtrip
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