Rockfax Description
The monstrous third pitch is good value HVS. Start at the toe of the left-hand buttress.
1) 4c, 28m. Climb the slab to gain the thin crack. Follow this up to a small ledge on the right. Head straight up to the right-hand end of the large ledge that Nea starts from. Traverse rightwards below the holly tree, then climb easily up to a ledge and belay below an open groove.
2) 5a, 28m. Follow the crack up the back of the groove. This proves a bit of a tussle until stood on a sloping ledge about 8m up. From here, make a puzzling traverse up and left around the arete to finally pull onto the slab above. Head up and right to a large flake and belay below an intimidating wide slot.
3) 5a, 10m. If you have planned ahead, then this is your mate's lead! Move up to the slot where a long sling and basketball skills will allow you to thread the chockstone from below. Prepare for battle and wade into the wide crack. Having succeeded it still requires a steady head to continue up the fist-crack to the ledge above.
4) Finish as for P3 of Nea. © Rockfax


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User Date Notes
JaySheppard 19 Jun, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Human feces at the top of pitch 3. Someone clearly shat themselves after the offwidth.
Show beta
βeta: Human feces at the top of pitch 3. Someone clearly shat themselves after the offwidth.

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Guidebooks for Clogwyn y Grochan

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High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 169
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 167
Votes cast 164
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set
Route of Interest
Scratch Arete

Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Craig Pant Ifan (Tremadog))

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