UKH

120m, 4 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A great route in its lower parts. Start just above a collection of boulders below a V-groove. Most people only climb the first one or two pitches and abseil off. .
1) 4c, 20m. Step off the blocks and climb into the sentry box. A committing step left onto the wall and a delicate traverse left lead to a juggy spike. Span left to the ledge and move left to below a short groove. Climb this to the holly tree and traverse left over blocks to the turret belay at the top of Brant Direct.
2) 4c, 15m. Traverse left from the belay and pass over the top of the corner of Brant Direct and enter the awkward V-groove to its left. Climb this short corner and head right along the ledge to belay in a corner almost directly above your belayer.
3) 4a, 40m. Head leftwards up the slab, passing a corner and aiming for the large yew tree. A further 4a pitch up the front of the buttress above can be climbed to top out. Alternatively a 60m abseil reaches the ground from here. © Rockfax

Ticklists

North Wales Rock Graded List, Menlove Routes, North Wales 100 Classic Climbs, "A Graded List of a Few Welsh Climbs" Aka ROGER'S LIST, UK Holiday Plans, The climbs of Menlove Edwards and Colin Kirkus, George's Ultimate Easy to Mid-Grade North Wales Trad Ticklist, Welsh Roadtrip

Feedback

User Date Notes
EdWatson 2 Jun Show βeta
βeta: Did first two pitches, super nice climbing. Got to third pitch expecting it to be easy, ended up being a shitty choss-fest with run out gear. Pranged out, built a belay, partner came up and was lost for words as to how shite it was. Thinking we were off route, we abbed back to the first pitch, and then down from the metal tat. The people in the mountaineering club hut opposite us on the pass could have written the above words, as they watched the whole ordeal, and even consoled us by shouting 'you were so f*cking close' across the pass when we both got back down - thanks for that, whoever you were. Third pitch 1/10 Day out 10/10
βeta?
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βeta: Did first two pitches, super nice climbing. Got to third pitch expecting it to be easy, ended up being a shitty choss-fest with run out gear. Pranged out, built a belay, partner came up and was lost for words as to how shite it was. Thinking we were off route, we abbed back to the first pitch, and then down from the metal tat. The people in the mountaineering club hut opposite us on the pass could have written the above words, as they watched the whole ordeal, and even consoled us by shouting 'you were so f*cking close' across the pass when we both got back down - thanks for that, whoever you were. Third pitch 1/10 Day out 10/10
Gareth Collom 1 Sep, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Brant direct the continued up Brant.
 
Show beta
βeta: Brant direct the continued up Brant.
*superchilled 24 Apr, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Pitch 4 really not worth bothering with. Should have abbed off the tree at top of P3.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Pitch 4 really not worth bothering with. Should have abbed off the tree at top of P3.

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Route of Interest

Dives / Sabre cut

Grade: VS 4c ***
(Dinas Cromlech)
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