Rockfax Description
A great route. Start 25m right of the fallen block at a narrow chimney with a flake leaning across it at half-height.
1) 18m. Ascend the chimney making good use of the flake. Then follow a groove up a steep wall.
2) 20m. Climb the short, steep wall on the left, then follow the short crack to mantel into a niche below a pinnacle. Step left and enter the crack above from behind. The stance is 5m beyond.
3) 12m. Climb the corner and traverse left along the ledge to a chimney. Climb the chimney to a ledge and good belay.
4) 20m. Easy ground leads up and right to a large grassy rake.
5) 40m. Follow the grassy rake rightwards to reach a large jumble of rocks - The Vestry.
6) 25m. Traverse to the chimney 6m to the right and climb up it. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
A strenuous and testing climb for its grade.

M W Guiness,W Mcnaught, H R C Carr 27/Aug/1925.

Ticklists

North Wales Rock Graded List , Preparation climbs for a Cuillin ridge traverse , The Long Routes , George's Ultimate Easy to Mid-Grade North Wales Trad Ticklist , Llidberis

Feedback

User Date Notes
Capricorn One 18 Jul, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Rockfax topo is way off. Pitch two as described leads up to a large (read: tonnes) amount of suspect rock with a 5a-ish move to the left. There are several bits of in-situ tat (plus one more now) where people have gone wrong.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Rockfax topo is way off. Pitch two as described leads up to a large (read: tonnes) amount of suspect rock with a 5a-ish move to the left. There are several bits of in-situ tat (plus one more now) where people have gone wrong.
bonkersbilly123 23 Jun, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: First 3 pitches are fab, if you can find it. The rockfax topo is way off for the second and third pitch. Best to go off the description and look at the photos someone has posted on here as reference.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: First 3 pitches are fab, if you can find it. The rockfax topo is way off for the second and third pitch. Best to go off the description and look at the photos someone has posted on here as reference.

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Guidebooks for Clogwyn y Ddysgl

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High HVD
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High VD
Mid VD
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Low HD
Votes cast 13
Votes cast 12
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
DNF
Dogged
Flashed (β)
Not Set
Route of Interest
Red Wall and Longland's Continuation

Grade: VD ***
(Y Lliwedd)

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