UKH

Rockfax Description
One of the great Welsh Classics, with the other of Cloggy's great lasso/pendulums. Start about 30m right of the base of Eastern Terrace, where a small broken pinnacle leans against an overhang.
1) 5b, 25m. Climb up and off the pinnacle and make a delicate traverse across the lip of the overhangs to a groove. Move left again into an often-wet groove and follow this to a ledge and flake belay. Quite a serious pitch so place all the limited runners you can find, your second will need them! It is possible to leave a sling on a low spike to back-rope the second.
2) 4b, 20m. Climb the groove and slab to the base of the main upper slab.
3) 5a, 30m. Move up the slab briefly and then make a diagonal traverse with difficulty to the arete (Linnell's Leap in reverse). Climb the arete to a spike, move right and take a thin crack up to a flake. Head left round the rib to a groove and move up to a belay.
4) 5c, 15m. Pull up and right round the arete, from here there are several options. The original is to lasso a small spike over in the groove - you'll need good eye sight and the precision aim of a cowboy plus about 12m of rope. You can then either pendulum across or free climb the thin traverse (this is also possible without the spike lassoed of course). A third option, which requires bravery and an extra E point, is climbing the extremely bold blunt rib direct at E3 5c before moving right to the belay.
5) 5a, 35m. Climb the edge of the slab up to a ledge.
6) 4a, 12m. Climb easily up behind the belay to a crevassed stance on the right.
7) 4c, 30m. P5 of Longland's. Pull up steeply then move right to a chimney. This leads to easier ground and the top. © Rockfax

Ticklists

Hard Rock, North Wales Rock Graded List, Best slab climbs of the UK, ROCKFAX Style Top 50: North Wales, MIA logbook must haves!, CLIMB Mag's Top 100 routes in Britain, Unusual and Interesting Routes You Must Do VS- E2, North Wales 100 Classic Climbs, ROCKFAX - Top 50 North Wales Climbs, Ultimate E2 ticklist, Alex's Wales ticklist, The Road to Shibboleth, Bangor BUMS Uni-Life Ticklist, The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet), George's Ultimate Easy to Mid-Grade North Wales Trad Ticklist, Hard Rock 2020, Hard Rock 2020, Hard Rock & Other Classics, 2021, N Wales 2021

Feedback

User Date Notes
Tom Fullen 15 Aug, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: In situ nut at the start of the first pitch. You can leave a draw to back rope the second and then collect it when you get back down
βeta?
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βeta: In situ nut at the start of the first pitch. You can leave a draw to back rope the second and then collect it when you get back down
treesrockice 10 Aug, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Would recommend the top pitch is worthwhile for the wild 4c moves through the over hang, very easy and not that dirty or loose (for a mountain crag) higher up.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Would recommend the top pitch is worthwhile for the wild 4c moves through the over hang, very easy and not that dirty or loose (for a mountain crag) higher up.
LucaC 1 Aug, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Top pitch is loose, dirty and gruesome. Better to ab from the in situ sling and maillion at the top of the penultimate pitch.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Top pitch is loose, dirty and gruesome. Better to ab from the in situ sling and maillion at the top of the penultimate pitch.

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High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
Votes cast 72
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 71
Votes cast 69
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Route of Interest

Shrike

Grade: E2 5c ***
(Clogwyn Du'r Arddu (Cloggy))
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