Rockfax Description
A superbly-positioned route with massive exposure from the first move. It is steep, well protected and has plenty of rests. Start about 12m right of the abseil, where a pinnacle rests against the overhangs.
1) 5c, 18m. Climb up the left side of the pinnacle and traverse left below a steepening for 3m to reach a thin crack. Tricky moves up this lead to a stance on ledges above.
2) 5b, 28m. Follow the groove above and pull round the overhang with interest to good holds on the left. These now lead out leftwards towards the arete. Climb up for a few metres before a delicate traverse leads back to the main crack. The crack is short and steep but thankfully blessed with huge holds and spike runners. At its top there is a ledge. From here, traverse out left again to the arete. Climb up before making a few tricky moves back right. A couple of steep and intimidating moves on buckets lead to the top. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
Climbs the superb steep wall via a weaving route on good holds.
P1 Climb the left side of the pillar then traverse left to a thin crack which increases in difficulty where a hard move gains good holds then the belay ledge.
P2 Jam up the crack to a widening, then traverse left to another crack, climb up then move back right into the original crack. This is climbed until a leftwards traverse leads to the arete for a few moves, then take the wall on the right past spaced gear to the top and hopefully the warmth of the sun.
Ticklists
Great Wall Climbs of the UK , North Wales Rock Graded List , ROCKFAX Style Top 50: North Wales , MIA logbook must haves! , North Wales 100 Classic Climbs , ROCKFAX - Top 50 North Wales Climbs , Ultimate E2 ticklist , Alex's Wales ticklist , Bangor BUMS Uni-Life Ticklist , The Road to Shibboleth , Radical Rockcats 2nd Year of Uni Ticklist , Joe Browns Shops 50th Anniversary Celebration Routes List , The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , Chris H's 100 Mega Classic Trad , George's Ultimate Easy to Mid-Grade North Wales Trad Ticklist , Best of the rest and the ones that got away , North Wales jaunt , 2021 , Welsh climbs to last a lifetime , Year 2 ticklist , Extreme Rock! , North Wales To Do List
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| barny | 1984 |
Show βeta
βeta: Fantastic route - Kevin cruised P1, then I had to make hard moves off the belay to start P2, and the wall above you impends, and you wonder what’s going to happen, but the holds are good and you can just keep going, until there’s a roar and a fast jet buzzes you - you get over the top to a fantastic sunset. Do it. No way this is E2. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Fantastic route - Kevin cruised P1, then I had to make hard moves off the belay to start P2, and the wall above you impends, and you wonder what’s going to happen, but the holds are good and you can just keep going, until there’s a roar and a fast jet buzzes you - you get over the top to a fantastic sunset. Do it. No way this is E2. |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Clogwyn Du'r Arddu (Cloggy)
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The Overhanging Arete
Grade: E2 5b ***
(Cyrn Las (Gyrn Las))