95m, 3 pitches. P1: 3, 30m. Leftward trending groove, starting just left of the approach gully to Clogwyn Left Hand. Spike belay at the base of a groove in the steep wall. P2: 7, 20m. Up the steep groove onto a turfy ledge and from there onto a small turfy step. Fix as much gear as possible and launch left and up on the slab past a few useful hooks. Delicate, technical and bold. Aim for blobs of turf at the top left hand corner of the slab, which lead to easy ground and the in situ thread for El Mancho etc. P3: 5/6, 25m. Pillar Chimney ice variation, belaying on top of a chockstone just below the top of the pillar. Grade depends on how much ice there is. P4: 7, 25m. Awkward moves lead to the top of the pillar. From there launch across the obvious ice and turf traverse line, with good axes in the traverse lineage technical footwork to shimmy across on ice and rock. Finish up easy ice at the top of Spectral Wall.
Dai Lampard, Bob Brewer Feb/2006.
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