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120m, 3 pitches. The chimney pitch requires a good build up of ice and is awkward.

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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
geoff b 30 Jan, 2019 AltLd Very entertaining dry-tooling up the chasm: like Deep Cut Chimney on Hell's Lum only narrower!
with Calum M
Very entertaining dry-tooling up the chasm: like Deep Cut Chimney on Hell's Lum only narrower!
with Calum M
matt peacey 7 Feb, 2018 AltLd G/U I lead pitches 1 and 3, Ian lead the crux V pitch
I lead pitches 1 and 3, Ian lead the crux V pitch
ianstevens 7 Feb, 2018 AltLd O/S Led P2, thin
with Matt Peacey
Led P2, thin
with Matt Peacey
Hidden 20 Jan, 2018 AltLd
Hidden 20 Jan, 2018 AltLd O/S
philhilo 17 Dec, 2017 AltLd O/S Planned to do Variations but got to the chimney pitch and seemed rude to ignore the fat ice. Took the ice all the way to the chockstone. Steep, awkward, narrow and pumpy at the top. Glad of the rest and full length screw just before the tricky bit. Ian took last pitch - tricky moves around corner onto ramp, buried in snow this time.
with ian wyatt
Planned to do Variations but got to the chimney pitch and seemed rude to ignore the fat ice. Took the ice all the way to the chockstone. Steep, awkward, narrow and pumpy at the top. Glad of the rest and full length screw just before the tricky bit. Ian took last pitch - tricky moves around corner onto ramp, buried in snow this time.
with ian wyatt
mrphilipoldham 14 Dec, 2017 AltLd O/S Jumping on to a V after only leading one III and the odd II/III.. great idea! Had to reattach my right crampon half way up the crux pitch, calves were screaming by the top. Good job I like chimneys. Finished out to the right.
Jumping on to a V after only leading one III and the odd II/III.. great idea! Had to reattach my right crampon half way up the crux pitch, calves were screaming by the top. Good job I like chimneys. Finished out to the right.
devious wally 14 Dec, 2017 AltLd O/S
geoff b 12 Dec, 2017 AltLd rpt In great condition, though I did find it tricky kicking my feet in whilst in the cleft with a pack on my back. Rod got the main pitch (P2) and I finished over to the right this time. Lampard-Brewer looked in condition but it was turning blizzard-like by then so we raced off.
with Rod W
In great condition, though I did find it tricky kicking my feet in whilst in the cleft with a pack on my back. Rod got the main pitch (P2) and I finished over to the right this time. Lampard-Brewer looked in condition but it was turning blizzard-like by then so we raced off.
with Rod W
Hidden 11 Feb, 2015 Lead
adie84 8 Feb, 2015 -
The Grist 8 Feb, 2015 Lead O/S Led this as part of the lampard-brewer route which Misha led in fine style. Two excellent grade 7 pitches (this route is not currently in the ukc database) .
with Misha
Led this as part of the lampard-brewer route which Misha led in fine style. Two excellent grade 7 pitches (this route is not currently in the ukc database) .
with Misha
Derek Ryden 7 Feb, 2015 AltLd O/S P2 climbed on ice, with use of rock for right foot/back. Finished up Lampard Brewer.
with geoff b
P2 climbed on ice, with use of rock for right foot/back. Finished up Lampard Brewer.
with geoff b
geoff b 7 Feb, 2015 AltLd In great condition: the ice fall outside the chimney allowed a bit of 'back & footing' before swinging onto the overhanging finish. We finished across the jaw-dropping Lampard-Brewer finish, both having done the original finish before.
with Derek Blizzard
In great condition: the ice fall outside the chimney allowed a bit of 'back & footing' before swinging onto the overhanging finish. We finished across the jaw-dropping Lampard-Brewer finish, both having done the original finish before.
with Derek Blizzard
The old James turnbull 5 Feb, 2015 -
with John Crook
with John Crook
Hidden 5 Feb, 2015 Lead O/S
mynyddresident 4 Feb, 2015 Lead By the lesser ascended ice line on the outside of the pillar. Pretty fat but a delicate touch required with the ice.
with wolf
By the lesser ascended ice line on the outside of the pillar. Pretty fat but a delicate touch required with the ice.
with wolf
wolf.leeb 4 Feb, 2015 AltLd Delicate and bold moves on some thin and occasionally hollow ice.. VI 6 on the day for nic imo.
Delicate and bold moves on some thin and occasionally hollow ice.. VI 6 on the day for nic imo.
Jamie Skelton H 3 Feb, 2015 2nd
Alex Winter 25 Jan, 2015 AltLd O/S What a pig. Should have left my bag at the bottom.
with Nick
What a pig. Should have left my bag at the bottom.
with Nick
Nick Russell 24 Jan, 2015 AltLd O/S Brutal thrutching up the verglassed chimney, a relief to top out. Stayed left on the top pitch up a short but steep ice/turf groove.
Brutal thrutching up the verglassed chimney, a relief to top out. Stayed left on the top pitch up a short but steep ice/turf groove.
Hidden 24 Jan, 2015 Lead O/S
Andrew Sloan 24 Jan, 2015 AltLd O/S Led 1st and 3rd pitches, Tony led crux chimney. Don't climb with a sack like I did! Really good route. The chimney is pretty technical and strenuous but adequately protected. A pity about the one and a half hour queue at the start of that pitch!
with Tony Ball
Led 1st and 3rd pitches, Tony led crux chimney. Don't climb with a sack like I did! Really good route. The chimney is pretty technical and strenuous but adequately protected. A pity about the one and a half hour queue at the start of that pitch!
with Tony Ball
Hidden ??, 2015 -
mike.moss 24 Feb, 2013 AltLd O/S Grade 3 chimney on P1 climbed in big boots and gloves, but the rest in winter condition.
Grade 3 chimney on P1 climbed in big boots and gloves, but the rest in winter condition.
Dave Almond 8 Feb, 2013 AltLd Finished up Lampard Brewer. Exposed moves above the pillar on not so clever gear
with frost
Finished up Lampard Brewer. Exposed moves above the pillar on not so clever gear
with frost
frost 8 Feb, 2013 AltLd Finished up the Lampard Brewer.
with D Almond
Finished up the Lampard Brewer.
with D Almond
roberts1234567890 26 Jan, 2013 2nd
with danJBA
with danJBA
danJBA H 26 Jan, 2013 Lead O/S Climbed in 2x 50m pitches
Climbed in 2x 50m pitches
Hidden 26 Jan, 2013 AltLd O/S
Hidden 23 Jan, 2013 -
kenneM 23 Jan, 2013 AltLd Climbed with Carl a great route.
with Carl Davies
Climbed with Carl a great route.
with Carl Davies
Jack.H.92 3 Feb, 2012 AltLd
Tom Livingstone 1 Feb, 2012 AltLd O/S
tskelhon ? Feb, 2012 AltLd O/S
with Jack
with Jack
Cardi 18 Dec, 2011 Lead O/S Brilliant involved action
with Clare D
Brilliant involved action
with Clare D
Hidden 9 Jan, 2011 AltLd
centurion05 ??, 2011 Lead
with stu joyce, rusty8850
with stu joyce, rusty8850
Hidden ??, 2011 -
Hidden 18 Dec, 2010 AltLd O/S
Hidden 18 Dec, 2010 AltLd O/S
tlmarjot 18 Dec, 2010 AltLd O/S
with Chris Todd, ben_lea
with Chris Todd, ben_lea
david morse 2 Dec, 2010 AltLd O/S Climbed inside the chimney, plenty of pro. Pretty steady if you like this sort of thing. Traversed into Clogwyn gully left hand which had good ice. A very worthwhile route
with glyn+the boss
Climbed inside the chimney, plenty of pro. Pretty steady if you like this sort of thing. Traversed into Clogwyn gully left hand which had good ice. A very worthwhile route
with glyn+the boss
Glyn 2 Dec, 2010 AltLd O/S Great route, I found seconding p2 with a pack on desperate!
Great route, I found seconding p2 with a pack on desperate!
Pete Graham 28 Nov, 2010 AltLd O/S
with Mr Powly, Tom Everett
with Mr Powly, Tom Everett
Mr Powly 28 Nov, 2010 AltLd
tom.e 28 Nov, 2010 AltLd O/S
BorisVBlade 13 Mar, 2010 Lead O/S Led all pitches. Crux pitch tech 6 with very little ice. Extremely enjoyable mixed climbing!
with Guillaume Billardon
Led all pitches. Crux pitch tech 6 with very little ice. Extremely enjoyable mixed climbing!
with Guillaume Billardon
Hidden 7 Mar, 2010 AltLd O/S
Hidden 6 Mar, 2010 AltLd β
philboy 6 Mar, 2010 AltLd O/S
with will, LakesWinter
with will, LakesWinter
mynyddresident 16 Feb, 2010 Lead Considered going direct but the thaw meant the ice wasn't frozen to the rock. Gave in to the thrutch but sneaked in a traverse back to the ice choke to finish on the left hand side.
with liam
Considered going direct but the thaw meant the ice wasn't frozen to the rock. Gave in to the thrutch but sneaked in a traverse back to the ice choke to finish on the left hand side.
with liam
Hidden 31 Jan, 2010 AltLd
Misha H 30 Jan, 2010 AltLd O/S Excellent, memorable route, well worth the walk-in. P1 provided a nice mixed warm-up. The ice on P2 was pretty thin with no obvious rock gear available higher up and the capping ice choke looked like hard work to get round, so after moving up a few metres I thought better of it and traversed right to do battle with the chimney! A series of contortions, back-and-footing, the odd knee and lots of hooking and torqueing saw me up the pitch. Good fun and not too pumpy, and the gear was reasonable. The last pitch provided fairly easy but enjoyable ice climbing to the right of the rock wall (didn't go for the wall as it looked hard and we were short of time - verglas without any decent ice). Following a late start, didn't get on the route until 2pm and finished just as it got dark at 6.15pm. Blue skies almost all day long, magic! Led P2 and P3.
Excellent, memorable route, well worth the walk-in. P1 provided a nice mixed warm-up. The ice on P2 was pretty thin with no obvious rock gear available higher up and the capping ice choke looked like hard work to get round, so after moving up a few metres I thought better of it and traversed right to do battle with the chimney! A series of contortions, back-and-footing, the odd knee and lots of hooking and torqueing saw me up the pitch. Good fun and not too pumpy, and the gear was reasonable. The last pitch provided fairly easy but enjoyable ice climbing to the right of the rock wall (didn't go for the wall as it looked hard and we were short of time - verglas without any decent ice). Following a late start, didn't get on the route until 2pm and finished just as it got dark at 6.15pm. Blue skies almost all day long, magic! Led P2 and P3.
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Voting
High VI
Mid VI
Low VI
High V
Mid V
Low V
High IV
Mid IV
Low IV
Votes cast 19
High 6
Mid 6
Low 6
High 5
Mid 5
Low 5
High 4
Mid 4
Low 4
Votes cast 10
Votes cast 19
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Ground Up
Flashed (β)
Repeated
Not Set
Route of Interest

Western Gully

Grade: V 6 ***
(Ysgolion Duon (Black Ladders))